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Community Article How to Clear the Print Queue in Windows 10 — Micro Center How to Clear the Print Queue in Windows 10 Ian admin February 12 edited October 17 in Windows The print queue shows what documents have been sent from the computer to the printer and are trying to print. If you are experiencing issues with documents not printing in Windows, and you have already verified that you are using the correct printer, it may be because there are documents pending or running into an error in the print queue. This can be easily solved by clearing the print queue. Here is how to clear the print queue in Windows 10: 1.   The print queue can be found in the Devices and Printers menu. To open Devices and Printers, press the Windows key on your keyboard and the letter R at the same time to open a Run window. Enter “control printers” into the Run window and then press OK. 2. Once the Devices and Printers window is open, it will show a list of all printers installed to the computer. There may be a green check mark on one of the devices indicating it is the default printer. 3.   Select the printer that needs its queue cleared by right-clicking on it and choose See what’s printing from the list that appears. 4. A properties window will open for the printer. Select the Printer menu and then choose Cancel All Documents. Now any queued documents will be cleared, and the next document sent to the printer will be the first in the queue to be printed. Related Articles: How to remove a Printer from Windows 10 How to disable Print to PDF in Windows 10 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Audio/Microphone Issues — Micro Center Audio/Microphone Issues Kristyn ✭ April 17 in Technical Support Questions I have an 8th generation HP Pavillion laptop that is having trouble with the microphone. I discovered this when video chatting because, no matter the platform, I can hear the other person, but they cannot hear me. I have tried recording myself with the computers camera to test the microphone and it just will not work. I ran a diagnostic through HP and nothing was detected. I tried all of the tech support options HP's help center offered, but nothing has worked. When testing the audio my computer shows that it can hear my voice, and all of my microphone settings appear to be turned on. What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!   0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSKyleH admin April 17 Hello Kristyn, one thing I can suggest is checking the sound control panel in Windows 10. This can be accessed by right clicking the speaker icon and choosing Sound Settings, then looking for Sound Control Panel as a blue link. When the window opens, click recording devices. When talking into microphone, green bars will go up and down to the left of it. If the microphone that has these green bars doesn't have a green check mark, then it may need to be made your default device and you may try clicking that microphone and choosing Set as Default. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 26 TSKyleH  Thank you for your advice. I Followed your instructions and found that the computer microphone is in fact my default device. So, unfortunately I am still without audio. If you have any other ideas for me to try I would love to hear them. Thanks again! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 26 Could you tell us the model of your laptop? Also, please try the voice recorder app on your system and see if you can record and playback a message. Are you using the built in microphone or an external one? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 My laptop is an HP Pavilion. It was purchased around Black Friday 2019, so it is a new device.  I have tried tried the voice recorder and it will not record my voice. I am using the built in microphone.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 We'd like to reset your audio controller first. Hold the "Windows" key and press "R". In the "Run" box type: appwiz.cpl We'll need to find your audio software to uninstall and reinstall from here. I couldn't say exactly without a model number but either IDT, or Realtek High Definition Audio. Double click on it, uninstall and reboot. The system will install an audio driver on reboot automatically. Try the voice recorder app again. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 Thank you for your help. I held down the "windows: key, pressed "R", and entered appwiz,cpl, but IDT and Realtek were not among the options listed. I found the model number for my laptop - 15-cs106cl.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 Thank you. We're going to follow Kyle's instructions to get back into the sound control panel. I'll give you a direct way. "Windows + R", at "Run" type: explorer.exe %windir%\system32\mmsys.cpl We'll go to the recording tab and double click on your microphone. Got to the "Advanced" tab and let me know what the default format is set to. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 The default setting is 24 bit, 48000 hz 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 Change it to any 16 bit option and press "Ok" then try the voice recorder app again. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 I changed it to the 16 bit option and it still does not work... 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 Alright. We'll reset the driver another way. Right click on the "Start" menu, and go to "Device Manager". Expand "Sound, video and game controllers". Let me know what you have there. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 I have Intel (R) Display Audio and Realtek (R) Audio 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 Right click on the "Realtek (R) Audio". Choose the option to uninstall it. Click "Uninstall" and reboot.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 I uninstalled Realtek. How do I reboot? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 I have rebooted. Still not working 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 Next step, lets go to Start > Settings Privacy. Select "Microphone" on the left and verify that apps are allowed to access it. Also check for the programs we're using in the list below this. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 I checked the privacy settings and my camera and voice recorder are both allowed to access the microphone.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 Good. Next we'll go back into "Device Manager". This time we're looking under "System Devices". We're looking for "High Definition Audio Controller". One will be for your Intel Display Audio and one is for your Realtek (R) Audio. It's going to be too hard to tell, as the Realtek (R) Audio is typically an Intel chip with a Realtek Codec, they'll probably both have an Intel vendor ID, and they'll both reinstall on a restart. So lets  uninstall both of these devices, and reboot. They'll reinstall automatically on a restart and we'll test again. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 27 Is the one highlighted in blue the one I want to uninstall? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 27 Confirmed it's an Intel  chip with a Realtek Codec. Yes, please uninstall that and reboot. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 28 I uninstalled the Intel (R) Smart Sound Technology and it still isn't working...  I appologize for this being so difficult to fix! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 28 I have no sound what so ever on my computer now.... 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 28 And for some reason I no longer have the Intel (R) Display Audio on my device.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 28 I had sound before uninstalling Intel (R) Smart Sound Technology.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 28 sound is back, but still no audio 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin April 28 Apologize for the slow response. The root audio device will have to go online and find a driver it may take a bit. As for the Intel Display Audio, it's part of your video card. Updating the video card will re-add this back in if windows update doesn't do it for you. Do you have another microphone you can test? On a headset as an example? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Kristyn ✭ April 28 No need to apologize. I tested out an external microphone...and it worked! I also tried the voice recorder app without the external microphone and it works too!!!  Thank you so much for all of your help!!!!! I'm not sure why it decided to work all of a sudden, but I am glad it did. You have been very helpful through all of this and I really appreciate all of your guidance!!! Have a wonderful day   1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter spyke ✭ August 26 lenovo g50 internal microphone does not reach zoom session.   any suggestions? i have gone into the Control Panel, but the Configure button is grayed out for this device. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin August 26 Make sure the microphone is selected as the default input device in the Zoom app. Test the mic on the voice recorder app. Make sure it works outside of Zoom. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article New B744 - ESETMC.exe, Rapid Store Technology — Micro Center New B744 - ESETMC.exe, Rapid Store Technology Bjw ✭ June 19 in PowerSpec New PowerSpec B744 (i7-9700k) and having two issues; 1) This came with the trail version of ESET and at 1st boot I declined the install then was prompted to remove it which I said yes.  The system still has ESETMC.exe in the start-up apps and is also throwing 100's of event log errors daily. I downloaded the ESET uninstaller tool and it found nothing to uninstall.  What is the procedure for getting this removed ?? 2) Intel Rapid Store Technology seems to be taking a long time to start the service.  It appears in the task bar but well after other system icons appear, taking a full minute to appear and another 30 sec's or more for it to run (green checkmark appearing on the icon).  Prior to the green checkmark and hovering your mouse over the icon displays "Intel Rapid Store Technology is not running").  All seems fine but I have never had a PC where IRST took so long to start up. Thanks for any help, Bjw 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments Bjw ✭ June 19 PS:  Event log doesn't show any errors or warnings for IRST. Bjw 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TS_JosephF admin June 20 edited June 20 Hello @Bjw You may not be able to 'uninstall' as ESET is not actually installed on the PC. You can try using Revo Uninstaller. It is free and it can detect program files that Windows does not or cannot remove. You can download it from here: https://www.revouninstaller.com/ As for the issue with the Intel Rapid Storage, I recommend reinstalling the driver and checking how the properties are set. You can download the driver from here: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-Z390-P/HelpDesk_Download/ I am seeing that the startup type can be changed in the IRST properties. Make sure that it is set to automatic and restart the PC.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Bjw ✭ June 20 Ok so before doing the IRST reinstall I decided to check the BIOS to see if an update was available.  I hit F2 while booting to get into the bios and snap-shot the screen.  I must be stupid but how do you exit the bios ??  Trying F10 it just says you made no changes and clicking on OK to that does nothing.  what am I missing ?? Thanks, 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Bjw ✭ June 20 Never mind......this mouse is VERY touchy and after trying to click on OK it finally found the "sweet spot" on the button and closed........phew !!! When I do the IRST driver re-install are their settings I need to make note of before hand or is it pretty much a blind install.  I'll check the properties to insure automatic is set.  Also, I tried to open IRST just now but its window only pops up for a second then immediately dis-appears. Bjw 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TS_JosephF admin June 20 Bjw said: Never mind......this mouse is VERY touchy and after trying to click on OK it finally found the "sweet spot" on the button and closed........phew !!! When I do the IRST driver re-install are their settings I need to make note of before hand or is it pretty much a blind install.  I'll check the properties to insure automatic is set.  Also, I tried to open IRST just now but its window only pops up for a second then immediately dis-appears. Bjw You do not need to take note of any of the current settings. Also, if you cannot get it to open then reinstalling is likely going to solve that issue along with it not running. Once you reinstall, you should not have to change any settings. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Bjw ✭ June 20 edited June 21 Thanks.......I downloaded and it unzipped to 2 folders, Driver and Install.  The Driver folder has multiple files and a subfolder called 64bit , it has an AsusSetup.exe which I ran.   The installer lacked any details other than it installed successfully.   Note: I didn't uninstall anything prior to doing this. It did fix the issue of the RST app not opening but did not do anything with regards to RST starting slow.  Services.msc shows its running and set as Automatic (delayed).  I have not tried changing to just Automatic as am unsure why the delay is preferred.  Also I found multiple errors in event viewer relating to IStor which after the driver re-install seems to have stopped. I did notice Intel Optane Memory Manager was set to Manual in services.msc.  In task manager its stopped.  Should this not be automatic and running ?? PS: Revouninstaller free didnt find anything..  Actually, ESETMC is a MicroCenter installed startup app.   I did find in program data under startup the shortcut to the exe.   I believe deleting that shortcut will eliminate it from appearing in startup apps.  ESET support thought it was a custom app as they have no such thing as ESETMC.   Bjw 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Leave a Comment BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list Format Heading 1Heading 2 QuoteCodeSpoiler Emoji Url Image Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights Drop image/file Home • PowerSpecComment As ... Community Article Complete DIY desk setup — Micro Center Complete DIY desk setup redstone ✭ October 9 in New Members Hey everyone, I am very new, and when it comes to building PCs, I am very green. Yet, for some reason, I have decided to try something completely out of my comfort zone. I am an amateur woodworker, and I would like to build a PC within a wooden enclosure. I got my inspiration from DIY Perks' youtube clip "Building a spectacular DIY 'desk PC'" ( and while I'll be mostly following his guidance, I will take a note or two out of my own experience. Right now, I'd like your opinion on two things: 1. if I wanted to wire capacitor buttons so that I can turn on and off my PC without getting into the parts, who would I ask for help when it comes to programming the buttons (I'm not even sure if programming is the right word). This is explained in the video but I am not too savy. 2. heat, heat, heat! I will be using two large radiators connected to a water pump that's cooling the main components like the CPU on the motherboard and the GPU. Do you think I will need to cut out additional holes for fans or for the PSU. 3. what other cool things do you think I can hook up to this? Since I'm going all out, I'd love to add lights and a mic. 4. What kind of corners do you guys think I can cut in terms of water cooling or if I have enough ports, do I even need it? 5. Last thing, he mentions we cannot connect our IO to the motherboard, so he suggested buying short panel mount extension wires and to make a panel cutout connected to it. I don't mind making the panel, but can I just screw in the female ports onto a makeshift panel? Thanks for any help you recommend and check out the video, it's actually really fascinating, inspiring me to bring together tech and nature into one case. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Wireless printer will not print from laptops — Micro Center Wireless printer will not print from laptops wickeddreams49 ✭ June 16 in Technical Support Questions Hello, I have a Brother wireless printer that has worked well for more than a decade. Last week, I noticed the Brother wireless printer will not print jobs from my personal laptop (Toshiba). I installed the wireless printer software onto another laptop (Dell). However, I encountered the same problem from both laptops: I click "Print" and the light will turn green on the Brother wireless printer. But nothing will print.  I have tried rebooting the home wireless modem router (still can't print), troubleshooting on my laptop (system found no errors with the wireless printer), restarting the wireless printer (no luck), and resetting the network on the wireless printer. My home wireless modem router shows the wireless printer is connected, and the wireless printer reports a status of a strong and connected WLAN. I even tried disabling and restarting the Print Spool function under Control Panel > Administrative Tools > Services.  I still can't print a document from either laptop. Ironically, I can receive print jobs from my Android smartphone (I select "Print" and the wireless printer comes to life).  I have exhausted my options. My laptops and smartphone connect to the home wireless modem router. I will appreciate any solutions! I do not want to replace the wireless printer if I run into a similar issue with the network.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin June 16 Do you have a USB cable you can use to try plugging the printer directly into your laptops? That would be first instinct. If it can print successfully when using a USB cable, that means it has to be something to do with the wireless communication between the printer and computers. You mentioned you restarted your router, you could also try factory resetting your router. You'll have to re-connect your devices to wifi when you do this, but it's worth a shot.  I would also check and make sure your computers are set to a private network with network discovery turned on. Go to Control Panel > Network and Internet > Network and Sharing Center > Advanced Sharing Settings. Open the private category and make sure network discovery is selected.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article A Guide for Live Streaming Equipment 2020 — Micro Center A Guide for Live Streaming Equipment 2020 TSPhillipT admin April 24 edited September 3 in Reviews & Buying Guides Hello! Thank you for stopping by the Micro Center Community! This is a breakdown of streaming setups at three different tiers: Beginner, Intermediate, and Pro. It can be very confusing trying to keep track of all the different kinds of equipment used for streaming and what pieces are even necessary.  I will go into detail for things that I would consider required, and things that I would consider an accessory and may not be needed at all.  Also, an important note: While many retailers such as Micro Center are experiencing a shortage of webcams, I will be including these options still so you know what to look for you when you do see webcams start to come back in-stock.  I highly advise that if you are just starting off streaming to look within the Beginner and Intermediate setups and getting comfortable with the equipment there.  Streaming is a big commitment and starting off with Pro equipment at the beginning can be a waste of money if you don't stream frequently.  When you begin livestreaming and have a solid grasp at it (and hopefully some regular viewers), I would then consider upgrading the equipment you have.  When upgrading your setup, you do not need to do it all at once.  It's absolutely okay to upgrade your equipment one piece at a time.  Upgrading equipment can even be great content for a stream title.  “New Webcam Stream!” or “New Stream Setup” usually draws wandering eyes.  This guide will not go into detail on what internal hardware your computer needs to stream.  This guide will focus on peripherals and streaming equipment.  Different games will require different recommended hardware to stream and it’s possible that you may not even be streaming games.  This guide is aimed for those who already have a computer that can play and stream their desired game(s) without any performance issues. If you are looking to stream podcasts, interviews or content creation, the computer doesn’t need to be very powerful.  Keep in mind, a big part of streaming is having a good UPLOAD speed from your internet service provider.  This guide will assume every stream setup will use at least a webcam/camera and a microphone.  You can obviously stream without either of these, but many streams use both.    REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AT ALL PRICE POINTS Broadcasting Software is required to stream at all price points.  Without a program to broadcast with, you have no way of sending your video feed to your livestreaming platform.  A popular program for this is OBS Studio.  It is a free program that streamers use to stream to websites like Twitch and Youtube.  Another popular pick is Streamlabs OBS, which combines Streamlabs with OBS Studio.  Streamlabs is a tool for streamers to manage notifications and chat tools as well as providing other useful features for streamers. MICRO CENTER'S STREAMING STUDIO Similar to PCPartPicker, we have a system on our website called Streaming Studio where you can pick parts out for your streaming setup.  The system uses the stock in your local store, and once complete, you can place it as a big pickup order!  It will break down equipment and accessories for streaming into sections where you pick the item that you want.  We also have preset setups for the Beginner, Intermediate, and Pro categories so you have a starting point to work off of, and of course you can edit the presets and change them to fit your preferences/budget.  Lastly, you can select Wide Open and start with a blank slate and fill in the parts that you want!   BEGINNER STREAMING SETUP So you're looking to start a stream up for the first time?  There are definitely a few options for budget streaming.  Some people may not even need to buy additional equipment!  Beginning with this sort of hardware may help you decide whether or not you'll want to stream long term or broadcast every once in a while.  To jump start your audience, telling your friends or family would be a good first step!  The equipment here is generally acceptable quality, completing the job of letting viewers see you and hear you.  Laptops: Most laptops have a built-in webcam and an integrated microphone!  Assuming your laptop can handle streaming and playing games, you don’t really need to get any additional equipment if you are looking to stream for a budget.  Webcams: There are a lot of options for budget webcams, just note that they aren’t usually going to be high definition and they usually have low frame rates.  They still will get the job done and your viewers will be able to see you. Segue USB 1080p High Definition Web Camera Inland NeonTek NT920 Full HD Webcam Logitech C920S Pro HD Microphone: What is nice here is that webcams usually have a built-in microphone!  Although not the greatest quality, they again still perform for what you need them to.  If you have a pair of headphones that have a microphone built in, those should work as well.  For the beginning tier, I'd recommend getting a gaming headset.  These generally have a quality microphone built-in.  If you notice the microphone start to distort or hear background noise, adjusting the noise gate in your broadcasting software should usually remedy this. Logitech H111 Stereo Headset HyperX Cloud Stinger Gaming Headset Corsair HS60 Pro Surround Gaming Headset   INTERMEDIATE STREAMING SETUP Maybe you started streaming with a budget setup and think it's time to upgrade.  You could also be someone who has decided to start with some nicer equipment to give your viewers a better experience.  The equipment here will give new viewers and strangers a better perception of the stream and I recommend getting equipment here if you want to try getting return viewers that are strangers.  Friends are more forgiving and generally watch streams even with issues, whereas strangers may not be so kind.   Webcams: We are now looking for higher quality webcams.  Ones that have a higher resolution, ideally 1080p or higher. Webcams here also have a nicer frame rate and you won’t look like a blur when moving.  Logitech C922 Pro Stream Webcam AverMedia Technologies Live Streamer CAM Logitech Brio 4K Ultra USB Microphone:  Have you been to those streams or have those friends whose microphone just pick up everything in a distorted way?  People talking in the background, loud clinks and clangs, and even the breathing of the person?  We are starting to use external microphones here!  These are all standalone USB Microphones with higher audio quality than integrated microphones you'll find in headphones, headsets and webcams.  You can consider using Wind Screens/Pop Filters if you find your audio having loud hisses or pops.  Boom Arms are also recommended to pair with your microphones, or even required if your microphone does not come with a stand.  If you are using a USB microphone, you may want to consider switching to actual headphones rather than a headset since headphones usually have better audio quality.  Not so much a streaming improvement but a quality of life improvement.   Blue Microphones Snowball USB Condenser Microphone Blue Microphones Yeti Nano USB Condenser Microphone Blue Microphones Yeti USB Condenser Microphone HyperX QuadCast USB Condenser Microphone w/ Mount PRO STREAMING SETUP Now we're getting into the heavy duty setups, and I only recommend these types of setups if you are going to be very serious about streaming.  This equipment is really for those that already have a captive audience where a streaming career is a possibility or is already happening. While the equipment here is very high quality, it requires multiple parts and is not a simple plug-and play setup. DSLR Cameras:  Let’s face it, even the best webcam is just too small to facilitate the quality a DSLR Camera can have.  Whether it be a better field of vision, better focusing, better lighting controls, DSLR Cameras will almost always be superior.  Keep in mind, DSLR Cameras were not designed for streaming and the camera you pick will need to be able to stay powered without the use of a battery, as well as provide a clean HDMI output (no icons, no framing, no words).  You will also need a capture card to receive the HDMI output from the camera into your PC.  Lastly, you will also need a mount for these cameras.  The DSLR Cameras listed below will work, but you will need to get the power supply/dummy battery elsewhere as Micro Center does not supply these.  You can also find a list of DSLR Cameras that work for streaming here. Sony Alpha a6000 Mirrorless Canon EOS M200 Content Creator Kit Canon EOS M50 Mirrorless Camera Requires dummy battery for power (sold separately) See details below Requires dummy battery Canon EOS Rebel T7i DSLR Camera Requires dummy battery Note: Canon EOS M200 is powered by a DC Power Adapter.  Requires Compact Power Adapter CA-PS700 with DC-E12 DC Coupler for Constant Power XLR Microphones:  Even higher quality than USB microphones, XLR microphones capture a larger range of sounds.  Most USB Microphones start distorting when players yell into the microphone, or have a hard time differentiating peaks when speaking softly.  I highly recommend thoroughly researching XLR Microphones if you are planning to get one.  Some microphones are better at picking up high pitched voices, some perform better with singing or yelling.  Research goes a long way here, finding the perfect microphone for your voice can make your stream’s audio feel super natural and crisp.  Keep in mind, you are going to need a boom arm for XLR microphones, and most either come with a wind/screen or pop filter.   Blue Microphones Spark SL XLR Condenser Microphone Audio-Technica AT4040 XLR Condenser Microphone Shure SM7B Vocal Dynamic Microphone Fun fact: This mic was used to record Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” Audio Interface: XLR Microphones do lack a USB connection, so you will need to use an audio interface to turn the analog signal from the microphone to a digital one.  These are commonly called a DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter).  XLR microphones also have a low and quiet audio output, so you will usually need a PreAmplifier (Pre-Amp).  This is where the Audio Interface comes in, with a DAC and Pre-Amp built together, they let you connect your XLR microphone to your computer.  They also include a bunch of adjustment options for your XLR microphone so you can fine-tune the way you sound.  You may also want to consider using high-end headphones here as well, as they work extremely well with Audio Mixers.   Focusrite Scarlett Solo Audio Interface Shure MVI Digital Audio Interface Behringer XENYX Q1202USB 12 Input Mixer Doesn’t have a Pre-Amp USB/Audio Interface Zoom LiveTrak L-8  STREAMING ACCESSORIES There are a lot of accessories that can be extremely useful for your stream.  Some are optional, some may be required depending on your overall setup.    Capture Cards: This may be required depending on what content you are streaming.  If you plan on streaming a game console, or using a DSLR Camera to stream, you'll need one.  If you are planning to stream content directly from your computer screen, you will not need a capture card.  Elgato Cam Link 4K USB Elgato Game Capture HD60 Pro Audio Extractor:  These devices take an incoming HDMI signal and split it into separate HDMI and Audio signals.  Some capture cards may require you to split the audio from your HDMI input to get audio.  You can also use this to feed your games audio into an audio mixer for adjustments on the game audio or putting the game audio on a different feed for your computer.  Sescom - SES-AE1001 HDMI Audio Extractor Boom Arm:  If you plan on using a USB or XLR Microphone, you should look towards using a boom arm to mount your microphone.  Some microphones do not come with stands, so it will be required to mount your microphone.  This helps with field of view, as some stands have an issue with blocking the screen.  It is also great to move your microphone as you change your posture throughout the stream. Neewer Microphone Boom  Scissor Arm Stand Samson Technologies  Microphone Boom Arm  Stream Deck: An efficiency accessory for streamers.  It’s a pad with buttons that lets you program macros to each button.  Streamers use this for playing certain songs when something happens, transitions to different scenes/layouts, or opening programs.  There is a lot that can be done that can make your stream more entertaining, although this is definitely a quality-of-life upgrade and not required.  Elgato Stream Deck Green Screen: Another accessory that is not required for streaming, but it can lead to fun and entertaining content for your viewers.  This also allows more options for setting up your layout for your stream because you are not as restricted with a background on your webcam.  Keep in mind, you will need to use a broadcast software that can work with green screens like OBS Studio.  Savage Chroma Green Travel Backdrop Kit Elgato Green Screen w/ Collapsible Stand Lighting Stands: Definitely not required, but it’s a very good way of increasing the quality of a webcam.  Good lighting coming from the direction of your webcam can dramatically change the way your webcam captures you and it will almost always look nicer.  Savage Edge Lit LED Light Mini Savage Luminous Pro LED Video Light Elgato Key Light If you have any questions or inquiries about anything in this article or if you'd like to share your current stream setup and wish list, please post them below!  I will try to answer them as soon as I am able to.  I will also be trying to keep this article up to date, especially when new things for streaming come out.  After going through everything, please stop by our Streamer Studio Builder to pick out the parts that you would like to add to your streaming setup!   Change Log: 7/28/20: Updated recommendations 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Leave a Comment BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list Format Heading 1Heading 2 QuoteCodeSpoiler Emoji Url Image Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights Drop image/file Home • Reviews & Buying GuidesComment As ... Community Article around 600 dollar build, is it worth using pre used Ebay parts? — Micro Center around 600 dollar build, is it worth using pre used Ebay parts? Hallohannes Germany ✭ June 19 in Help Choosing Parts I'd like you to help me out on two ends: Some important information: My is around 600 but I'd rather go even lower and if you do tell me I get some decent performance at 500 bucks I'd do it, but I want at least a 500gb SSD. I work a lot with my pc so I dont want to choose a great graphics card but a mid CPU even though I also want a pc that is decent enough to run games like GTA V on low to mid settings. I live in Germany (if that matters), so  here is my build: Feel free to switch out EVERYTHING im not sticking to this its a concept. second, Is it worth buying used PC-Parts or should I go with only new parts (remember I rather have mid performance and save 100 thand spend 100 more for just this slight upgrade) 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSMichaelB admin June 19 Welcome to the forum @Hallohannes. Your component selection looks solid, sadly there isn't too many corners we can cut to save much more, aside from maybe storage and memory capacity, starting with a 500GB SSD and 8GB of DDR4 and upgrading later on once your budget permits. As for buying used components, there is definitely a strong market for used components however there are some guidelines I'd recommend following when you buy used components. First and foremost, I strongly advise against buying used HDD's/SSD's as well as used power supplies. Storage has a very finite lifespan as mechanical drives are subject to failure over time and SSD's have a finite number of writes. Power supplies are also important as you don't want your PSU to die, and potentially have it take other components with it if its built in protections fail.  Graphics cards are pretty safe to buy as long as you use some basic tips & tricks during the purchase. Make sure when buying a graphics card that the seller has proof that it works. Request a picture of the card to make sure the condition is still good, and request a picture of the card running a task such as a video game or Furmark with the seller holding a picture of their online name and date. This will help prove that the card can still perform 3D rendering and will help ensure the seller actually has they product they are attempting to sell you. Another piece of advice is to check the second hand warranty policy for the brand you are purchasing. Manufacturers like EVGA offer second-hand warranties for products purchased from the original buyer, so you might be able to get a used 10th generation graphics card like a GTX 1060 for a solid price and still have a bit of warranty left over for the added piece of mind. With CPU's, you need to be a bit more careful. GPU overclocking is pretty harmless due to the locked voltage controls on most cards, but CPU's can have their lifespan and stability greatly impacted by overclocking. When buying used CPU's, it might be best to invest in a locked higher end processor to make sure the processor hasn't been abused with too much voltage. Also check for keywords like "delidded" for Intel CPU's. While it offers greater thermals, it can be a bit of a hassle to deal with when the IHS falls off, or if the liquid metal dries up over a longer period of time. For AMD processors, you don't have to worry too much as they don't really scale all that well with manual overclocking, so a lot of people avoid doing it entirely. You might also find some great deals on first gen Ryzen CPU's thanks to the recent 3000 series launch. They are also extremely uncommon to delid thanks to their higher quality soldered thermal interface material. Motherboards is another thing to be mindful of. If buying an Intel motherboard, request a high quality picture of the socket to make sure there are no bent pins. If it is an unlocked board, inspect the VRM power delivery components to make sure there are no burn marks or popped capacitors in view. AMD boards are likely a safer bet for the aforementioned lack of overclocking headroom, but it never hurts to thoroughly inspect the product or ask for more pictures. I wish you the best of luck with your build. If you have any further questions, let us know! 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article What motherboard would best suit my first "potential" build? USB 3.1 benefits? — Micro Center What motherboard would best suit my first "potential" build? USB 3.1 benefits? bconn ✭ May 29 edited May 29 in CPU's, Memory and Motherboards https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/custom-pc-builder.aspx?load=67b303a3-4394-4697-ba46-9a32e4e93f2d This is a link to the parts that were available for in-store. I was informed on reddit that the motherboard I chose didn't have a 20 pin header (chose this one due to availability). And after looking at a spreadsheet someone shared with me, I noticed all the motherboards I looked into didn't have a 20 pin header either. Does anyone know a good option that would run well with the other parts I picked? Or, if you think an adaptor would be a suitable fix? This is my first build and I don't know if not having the USB 3.1 would cause complications or even limit certain abilities. Thanks. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Best Answer TSTonyV admin May 30 Accepted Answer Okay, they're referring to this connector: This is a connector used specifically for the front panel USB-C connection, and the motherboard you chose doesn't have this specific connector. The only thing this will affect is that USB-C port on the top of the case. The other front panel connectors for the power button, USB Type-A and audio jack will all be able to plug into the motherboard you selected on that build. So if you don't have any use for a USB-C port, then it's not a big concern.  The closest priced board to the ASUS X570-P I found with the USB-C front panel header is the X570 Aorus Elite, with the next one up being the X570-Pro Prime. 5 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Answers TSTonyV admin May 30 Based on the pictures, and on ASUS specs for this motherboard, it should actually have two USB 3.1 Gen 1 headers. Are you referring the smaller connector used frequently for USB-C front panel cables? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter bconn ✭ May 30 Yes I believe so. This is the feedback I received which brought it to my concern. I guess just want to know whats this limits. Thanks for the response. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter bconn ✭ May 30 edited May 30 TSTonyV said: Okay, they're referring to this connector: This is a connector used specifically for the front panel USB-C connection, and the motherboard you chose doesn't have this specific connector. The only thing this will affect is that USB-C port on the top of the case. The other front panel connectors for the power button, USB Type-A and audio jack will all be able to plug into the motherboard you selected on that build. So if you don't have any use for a USB-C port, then it's not a big concern.  The closest priced board to the ASUS X570-P I found with the USB-C front panel header is the X570 Aorus Elite, with the next one up being the X570-Pro Prime. Thank you once again for getting back. I did further research and with your response included, I fully understand the concept of the different connectors. I also noticed I would have WiFi issues so I had to include that as well. After comparing a bunch of different options, I went with the ASUS X570 TUFF Gaming Plus (Wifi) just under $200. I honestly didn't see your suggestions in time as my first parts list ran out of stock and with all the up-charges and backorders on parts online, I purchased due to fear of loss. Hopefully I didn't make a rookie mistake. *EDIT: HAHAHA So with the motherboard I chose, I wont be able to use the USB C header on the case. (Back to my original problem) However I'm probably going to get an adaptor or live with it. Thank you again for the help. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin May 30 Of course! Always happy to be of assistance. The TUF Gaming Plus is a good motherboard overall and I think you'll be happy with it, minus the lack of USB-C header 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter mgreen50 ✭ October 4 I am also looking at a build using the Asus TUF Gaming plus with Wi-Fi and a Fractal Gaming Design S2 case with a USB-C on the front panel. Do I understand correctly that I will not be able to connect that USB-C to that motherboard? Are there any adaptors available that would allow that to take place? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter bconn ✭ October 4 Not a pro but I’ve been here so.. You are correct. Both the h510i and fractal s2 case have the same compatibility issues with the mobo stated above. You will need to buy an adaptor if you wish to use that front panel usb c. The adaptor uses the 20 pin socket (19 pin usb 3.0 header on the mobo) I’ll leave it to someone else to maybe recommend a particular adapter that would work well as I decided to do without and just not use my front panel connection. The IO on the x570 allows me to make all the connections I need while keeping wires towards the back of the case. I have read that the speed isn’t always guaranteed when using the adaptor so keep that in mind. But it still allows use of the front panel connections. Also they are inexpensive. Good luck! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Help Choosing a motherboard for a pre-built — Micro Center Help Choosing a motherboard for a pre-built leoszt ✭ July 18 in Help Choosing Parts Hi There,  I had originally purchased a pre-built system from Cyberpower, I am having issues with the motherboard that came with it so I am looking to upgrade. I'll go ahead and paste my system specs which tells exactly what I have.  I'm looking to purchase the ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F. Would that work? Any insight on this is greatly appreciated as I am not too computer savy. CAS: CyberPowerPC INFERNO Mid-Tower Gaming Case w/ RGB, USB 3.0, Tempered Glass Window [+22] (Black Color) CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i5-8600K 3.60GHZ 9MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1151 (Coffee Lake) CS_FAN: 3X 120mm CyberpowerPC 120mm Addressable RGB 1200RPM Fans w/ Hub + Remote Controller FAN: CyberpowerPC MasterLiquid Lite 120mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate (Intel) [-2] (Single Standard 120MM Fan) HDD: 120GB WD Green Series M.2 SATA-III 6.0Gb/s SSD - Seq R/W: Up to 540/430 MB/s, Rnd R/W up to 37/63k (Single Drive) HDD2: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Plus 32GB Intel Optane Memory HDD Acceleration 24X Faster (Secondary Storage Drive)) IUSB: Built-in USB 2.0 Ports KEYBOARD: CyberPowerPC RGB 7 Color Premium Gaming Keyboard MEMORY: 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4/3000MHz Dual Channel Memory (ADATA Spectrix D80 RGB Hybrid Liquid Heatsink Cooling) MOTHERBOARD: CyberpowerPC Z370 SLI Xtreme ATX w/ RGB, 802.11ac WiFi, USB 3.1, 2 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 6 SATA3, 2 M.2 SATA/PCIe [Intel Optane Ready] MOUSE: CyberpowerPC Standard 4000 DPI with Weight System Optical Gaming Mouse NETWORK: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network POWERSUPPLY: 800 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready [-6] RUSH: Standard processing time: ship within 12 to 15 Business Days SERVICE: 3 Years FREE Service Plan (INCLUDES LABOR AND LIFETIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT) SOUND: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO VIDEO: EVGA GeForce® GTX 1070 Superclocked ACX 3.0 Edition 8GB GDDR5 (Pascal)[VR Ready] [+80] (Single Card) 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin July 18 The motherboard in that system is listed as a standard ATX so any other ATX board should fit. The Z390-F is compatible with the 8600K so you shouldn't have any issues with that motherboard.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Windows 10 Display Color Calibration Tips & Tricks — Micro Center Windows 10 Display Color Calibration Tips & Tricks Ian admin April 30 edited October 23 in Windows If you're not happy with how your monitor looks on your Windows 10 PC, you can use the built in calibration software to help you pick out some new settings for your monitor. The Windows 10 Display Color Calibration is a built-in tool that will walk you through step by step with various settings and changes that are available to get your monitor/display looking its best. Here is how to go through the calibration:  1.   Check your monitor manual on how to navigate the monitor calibrations. Depending on monitor, there will typically be a Menu button for monitor settings found somewhere on the physical monitor. This will vary by monitor, but commonly is found on the bottom or right side of the monitor. The picture below is just an example of what this may look like on your monitor:   The monitor itself will have plenty of settings found in its menu that can be adjusted as well, so be sure to look through the various options / presets your monitor may offer. 2.  To continue with the Windows calibration settings, if you are running multiple monitor setups, make sure the correct monitor is selected first. Go into Display Settings by right clicking on the desktop and selecting Display Settings on the menu.   3.   Under Resolution, click the drop-down box and choose the one with recommended in parenthesis beside it. If you have multiple displays, make sure you select each monitor in the Display Settings window and repeat this step.     4.   Click the search box by the Windows Start Menu and search for calibrate. Click on Calibrate display color.     5.   Choose the best Gamma option. Gamma changes color values and the amount of light emitted for each value. Move the slider up and down to change any settings, then click Next to continue.     6.   Choose the best brightness option. You will need to use the controls found on your monitor directly to adjust the brightness, and can use the reference picture to pick your preferring setting. Once finished, click on Next.   7. Choose the best contrast option. You will need to use the controls found on your monitor directly to adjust the contrast, and can use the reference picture to pick your preferring setting. Once finished, click on Next. 8.   The next setting to be changed is for color balance, which allows you to change the color value for red, blue, and green. You will need to use the controls found on your monitor directly to adjust the contrast, and can use the reference picture to pick your preferring setting. Once finished, click on Next.   9.   The final screen allows you to compare your previous settings with the new changes. Click Finish if you are satisfied with the new calibration or click on Cancel if you are not and wish to discard it.   0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Help finding a compatible enclosure for this SSD — Micro Center Help finding a compatible enclosure for this SSD Eric_A ✭ May 24 in Help Choosing Parts I have an m.2 SSD I was given out of a friend's dead laptop. I wanted to make it into a portable, high-capacity storage drive, since it's 256GB. However, I have ordered 3 separate enclosures from multiple brands and sources online, all claiming they're compatible with it, and when they arrive, they are not compatible. I know the drive still works, because I slotted it into a different PC to check, and yep, all green. I did this after every compatibility fail, just to be really sure. All research I've done says it's AHCI, not standard NVMe. I'm kind of at my wits end here, and just want this thing to get working.  On a whim, I also went to a different friend, and borrowed an enclosure for SATA and another for NVMe to see if those worked, and nothing from those, either.  Any recommendations? The SSD model is: Samsung MZHPV256HDGL Rev 0  PLZ HELP 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSMikeW admin May 25 It's an NVME drive, it's M key. Do you have USB C available and were any of the enclosures you tested USB C NVME enclosures? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Eric_A ✭ May 25 edited May 25 TSMikeW said: It's an NVME drive, it's M key. Do you have USB C available and were any of the enclosures you tested USB C NVME enclosures? Yes, I've tried an NVME enclosure, as I mentioned toward the end of the post. It had USB-c out, and I tried using multiple cables to connect to usb-c ports and usb-a ports alike. Nada.  Also when I looked online, I found these pieces of information, explaining why this model isn't standard NVME:  https://www.compuram.de/documents/datasheet/SM951_M.2_SSD_Spec_1.0_General(AHCI).pdf (nowhere here does it say NVME, but AHCI driver does return a result) https://www.anandtech.com/show/9396/samsung-sm951-nvme-256gb-pcie-ssd-review (between the pictures of the NUC and the drives' connectors, it details the differences between the AHCI and NVME model numbers) 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin May 26 edited May 26 That's really interesting, an M.2 PCIe drive that doesn't support NVMe. I don't think I've come across one of those before, but I'm glad you found an answer.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Eric_A ✭ May 26 edited May 26 TSTonyV said: That's really interesting, an M.2 PCIe drive that doesn't support NVMe. I don't think I've come across one of those before, but I'm glad you found an answer.  Well, not quite an answer, as I knew this from the start. I still can't find any enclosures for it, oddly. Motherboards that support it, sure, but not external adapters or enclosures.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article How to Backup and Restore Data Using File History in Windows 10 — Micro Center How to Backup and Restore Data Using File History in Windows 10 TSTonyV admin February 12 edited October 17 in Windows Windows offers a few different ways to back up your files. The most common choice, especially for those who have an external hard drive, is to use File History. File History is the primary offline data backup tool for Windows 10. It allows you to automatically save data to a drive and restore from it. It has some similarity with the Time Machine feature in Mac computers where you will be able to restore multiple previous versions of a document or file if it has accumulated changes over time. For example, on a Word document you've had several variations of, with File History you could restore to the first save, or even the third or fourth depending on how far back you need to go. Setting it up is easy: 1. Open Settings from your start menu 2. Go to Update and Security 3. Go to Backup on the left, then select Add a Drive under "Back up using File History." Select the drive you want to use for your backup.  Once you select what drive you want, File History will automatically use it for future backups. "Add a drive" should change to a toggle switch you can use to enable or disable automatic backups. If you want to customize your backup settings, click More options under the switch.  In Backup Options you can run a manual backup, change how often automatic backups occur, and change how long backups are kept. You can also add, remove or exclude folders from automatic backups as you need, all user data folders should be included by default (documents, pictures, music, videos, downloads, etc...)  If you scroll down to the bottom of the Backup Options menu, you'll also find Restore files from a current backup. This will allow you to restore lost documents or old versions of documents from your backup drive.  When you click this option you'll be presented with a Control Panel window for File History with a list of the folders that have been backed up. At the bottom of the menu you'll notice the green circular arrow; that is the Restore to original location button. After you've selected whatever you need to restore, you can click that button and it will restore that file/folder back to where it was originally saved on your system. You can also preview individual files and use the left/right arrows to navigate between different saved versions if you're trying to roll back. If you're restoring a folder/file that is still on your computer, it will prompt you to replace the current file or skip over any duplicates.   You can use File History within File Explorer to restore previous versions of files/folders as well. Just navigate the to the file/folder you want to restore, right-click it and then select Restore previous versions A smaller window will open with a list of any previous versions of the file/folder available and what date they are from.  From here you can can click Open if you want to get a preview of the version from that date, and Restore will restore it back to the original save location how it was saved on that date. If anything you're restoring is still currently on your computer, you'll be prompted to replace the current version or skip over any duplicates.  Related Articles:  How to create and restore from a system image in Windows 10 How to recover files with the Windows File Recovery Tool 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article ASRock B450M Pro4 5v ARGB header and RMA question — Micro Center ASRock B450M Pro4 5v ARGB header and RMA question FritzG ✭ August 10 in Technical Support Questions 1st RGB build (2nd build overall) and no other issues.  Boots fine, no crashes or instability. Bought this board last month and have found that this header on the motherboard seems to be defective.  Any 5v ARGB cable I try to plug into it (accessory/ 5v LED strip, fan, hub/controller) is loose/wobbly and any connected devices do not light up properly.  It only lights up Yellow/Green/Blue and appears to be "breathing".  When I connected the LED strip, only the first 3 LED lit up and each one was one of the three colors that a fan lit up with (1- Yellow/2 -Green/3 -Blue).  I've been searching the entire internet for the last few weeks so I know that almost all RGB firmware/software is atrocious.  That said, I have carefully followed all of the regular steps to try and diagnose/resolve the issue via configuration and updates with no luck.  I tried configuring through the BIOS instead of Polychrome, reflashed the firmware (latest and BETA versions), plugged and unplugged / rebooted in all kinds of orders.  Nothing has helped. Is this an RMA type defect?  Am I doing something wrong?  Anyone else with this board have this same issue?  I've never had to return or RMA anything so not sure how it works because when I went to the ASRock site, I see this message "ASRock provide 1 year warranty service to Authorized Distributor, users should refer to the retailer or original vender RMA & Refund policy."  Then on the Microcenter site, I see this: Return or exchange timeframes Eligible return or exchange timeframes are from the date of purchase: 15 calendar days Motherboards Does this mean I am stuck with something that doesn't work because I didn't realize it until after the first 15 calendar days? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Best Answer TSTonyV admin August 10 Accepted Answer Ah okay, I did have that backwards. Looking around online I can't seem to find anybody who has reported this specific issue with this board. Hard to say if it's just a defect and you got unlucky with a couple of bad boards in a row, or if it's an actual design flaw for these.  If you'd like, I can get a message to the managers at your local store to see if they might be willing to let you exchange it for a different board. I can't promise anything since it is outside the return period, but it never hurts to ask.  5 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Answers TSTonyV admin August 10 I looked up your email address and I found two purchases for a B450M Pro4, one from June and one from August. I assume you're referring to the one from June.  As far as the warranties are concerned, you'll want to contact ASRock directly. We cannot perform replacements for their products under their manufacture warranty. If the board is defective, they should replace it. There's very important line there after the one you mentioned that says "If experiencing difficulties in warranty service through your dealer or place of purchase, ASRock will attempt to resolve this issue." Basically what they're saying is "check with where you bought it first, see if they'll help, and if not we will." There's more than one RGB header on this board, have you tried all of them? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter FritzG ✭ August 10 edited August 10 Thanks Tony.  Yes, the one from June.  As far as trying the "other RGB headers"  the only unaccounted for header is a 12v header and so plugging in anything 5v into it is not only pretty hard to do (4 pins vs 3pin thing) but it would also fry whatever I connect to it (if not damage the board itself).  Not sure since I'm not a put the square peg in the round hole ... with a hammer kind of guy. - 1 x RGB LED Header *  (4 PIN,12v) - 1 x Addressable LED Header **  (3 PIN, 5v) - 1 x AMD Fan LED Header ***  (4 PIN, 12v) * Supports in total up to 12V/3A, 36W LED Strip ** Supports in total up to 5V/3A, 15W LED Strip *** The AMD Fan LED Header supports LED strips of maximum load of 3A (36W) and length up to 2.5M. Any other suggestions?  I was just going to toss the one from June in frustration and replace it with the new one but changed my mind when I literally just took one of the Touchaqua ARGB fans I have, the DRGB controller the 3 pack came with and an ARGB 5v LED strip I have and tried to plug them into the 5v header of the second board (unpowered).  Unfortunately, the same issue existed (loose/wobbly connection) so I didn't bother building it or plugging it in.  I just returned it.  Its such a hassle after 15 days but its my own fault for not validating every single part of the board in the first 15 days.  I decided to work through the issue instead (if possible before either selling the board as is or RMA'ing it).  Why I ended up here as well. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin August 10 Yeah, the 3-pins are a little different so unless you specifically had a fan/controller for it then there's no reason to mess with it. I was primarily talking about the 4-pin RGB header and 4-pin AMD fan LED header.  These types of headers are standardized and having a fitment issue is rare, especially across multiple boards. I'd be inclined to believe it's something with the fan/controller you're using since the issue occurred with two different motherboards. Do you have another system with RGB headers you could try plugging them into? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter FritzG ✭ August 10 TSTonyV said: Yeah, the 3-pins are a little different so unless you specifically had a fan/controller for it then there's no reason to mess with it. I was primarily talking about the 4-pin RGB header and 4-pin AMD fan LED header.  These types of headers are standardized and having a fitment issue is rare, especially across multiple boards. I'd be inclined to believe it's something with the fan/controller you're using since the issue occurred with two different motherboards. Do you have another system with RGB headers you could try plugging them into? You kind of got this backwards.  I ONLY have 5v 3-PIN fans/controller/LED strips.  I cannot use the 12v headers.  I only have one 5v header ... which is where the problem is.  I probably should have added this earlier. My 5v 3-PIN fans which have been proven to work perfectly using the external DRGB controller does not work when connected to the motherboard. My 5v 3-PIN LED strips from a different manufacturer have been proven to work perfectly using the external DRGB controller. The external DRGB controller can act as a pass-through (HUB mode) when connected to the motherboard and when I did that, it passed the issue on to any devices connected to the controller in HUB mode. I would have to say that it is most definitely the motherboard.  Chances of me getting two motherboards with the same issue from the same Micro Center?  Maybe it is a design flaw.  I am hoping someone else with this model of motherboard either has the same problem or has one that works.  Either way, I will know it isn't just mine. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter FritzG ✭ August 10 That would be very kind of you.  No expectations of anything.  Thanks! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter FritzG ✭ September 9 Just to tie off the post, I was contacted by a store manager regarding this (Thanks Tony).  The ending of the story is that I am stuck with the board/problem and my only recourse would be an RMA to the manufacturer.  I was told that manufacturers try to push their quality control customer service issues to resellers which is why the return window is so short (unspoken implication = so MicroCenter doesn't have to deal with that).  I always thought that any defective stock they received could be returned to the manufacturer as part of B2B sales.  Apparently, this is not the case with MicroCenter.  I guess they just take whatever the manufacturer sends them and pushes it out the door.  After 15 days, its your problem not theirs. I will most likely just deal with the problem until I upgrade my board. I don't trust the manufacturer to send me a "new" replacement board so better the devil I know. If I buy from MicroCenter again, I may just crack open whatever I buy right there in the store and check everything before I leave. This way, I don't have to rush at home to check it and then make another trip to return defective products sold in store within 15 days. I always try to support my local retailer when it makes sense to, but they don't make it easy.  Another option is to buy via Amazon Prime and get free returns for 30 days (+ if you count the amount of time you can get a credit instead of a refund).  Probably more of a risk to get gray market or used products sold as new but I can always send it back without running into a short, inconvenient return window.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 9 I know that in some situations we can extend the return period up to 30 days on motherboards from our end, but once it's past that only a manager in-store can make an exception and depending on the time frame and situation they may not always do it. Thanks for the update, and of course let us know if there's anything else you need 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article New to PC realm, I need some friendly advice or help. — Micro Center New to PC realm, I need some friendly advice or help. Fusionsk8r ✭ July 4 edited July 4 in Help Choosing Parts I'm new to PC gaming, back in 2011/2012 I had an HP laptop that could barely run anything new at the time and struggled with a few older titles. It had like 4Gb of RAM. Long story short I've been on PC once before but about a month and a half ago I built my first rig. I'm trying to seek out help and guidance on my build and where I should start for upgrading. It runs most games on medium or High so far, some games like Rage 2 and other newer titles I can get ultra settings running great with minimum 60fps or higher.  My System specs are; [I7-9700k (3.6 GHz) Unlocked and Stock.] [2x 8GB DDR4 3200MHz Corsair Vengeance RGB(Overclocked from stock to 3200mhz)] [Be Quiet Rock Slim Air CPU Cooler (Silver with Black Fan 120W)] [ASUS ROG Strix Z390E Gaming Motherboard (No M.2's installed)] [Acer VG271 144Hz monitor 1920x1080p (some games I run in 2560x1440 at 60hz)] [MSI Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 Super OC GP Edition 8GB DDR6 256 Bit] [850W GameMax RGB power Supply] [Samsung EVO 860 1Tb SSD(6Gb/s)] [Seagate Barracuda 2Tb HDD] I'm just needing help understanding PC better. From what research I've done so far, my specs are a good Mid tier High end PC for stock usuage. I've heard alot of people say that overclocking the 9700k helps it preform better but most use a liquid cooling while doing such. I'm just wanting to get the most out my PC. I use it for Gaming and Unreal Engine and Blender.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments Ian admin July 4 Greetings. Everything looks good there, the biggest improvement you would probably see would be going up in "tier" of video card. You wouldn't have any bottlenecks or anything going to a top of the line graphics card if you wanted. 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Fusionsk8r ✭ July 4 So should I think about investing in a 2070S/2080(when it releases)? I asked another person and they mentioned me just upping my RAM to 32gb. All I'm looking for is Ultra settings @ 144hz in 1080p or Highish settings when running 2560x1440+, ill have to buy a 4k monitor rated for 144hz if I want 4k 60fps+ I'm sure.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Ian admin July 4 Fusionsk8r said: So should I think about investing in a 2070S/2080(when it releases)? I asked another person and they mentioned me just upping my RAM to 32gb. All I'm looking for is Ultra settings @ 144hz in 1080p or Highish settings when running 2560x1440+, ill have to buy a 4k monitor rated for 144hz if I want 4k 60fps+ I'm sure.  I doubt the RAM is holding you back for gaming purposes. A good way to tell is just open up task manager under "heavy" usage, and see how much RAM you are using. You can find that under the Performance tab, or Processes tab will show how much RAM is being used by each program etc. open on your PC.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Fusionsk8r ✭ July 4 Is there anything specific RAM usage wise that I need to look for? A couple of my processes are using about 20-30% of RAM, I'm definitely not super tech savvy and and basically running this show blind lol I know certain processes and applications have to be running for the computer to function, but I also don't know what processes are purposeless and using my RAM for no reasons. I just don't want to bug or annoy people with my green questions mostly but I KNOW I am not educated enough in this field to just click things either.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TS_JosephF admin July 4 Fusionsk8r said: Is there anything specific RAM usage wise that I need to look for? A couple of my processes are using about 20-30% of RAM, I'm definitely not super tech savvy and and basically running this show blind lol I know certain processes and applications have to be running for the computer to function, but I also don't know what processes are purposeless and using my RAM for no reasons. I just don't want to bug or annoy people with my green questions mostly but I KNOW I am not educated enough in this field to just click things either.  When checking the RAM usage, you will want to check how much the game is using and the total RAM usage. If you are getting somewhat close to 100% total RAM usage then that's when you will want to consider upgrading. In your case, 16 GB of RAM would be plenty for gaming. You should consider installing an M.2 SSD before upgrading the RAM to 32 GB.  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Fusionsk8r ✭ July 4 Would an M.2 basically give my build better speeds? The thing that confuses me mostly is how for example, Rage 2 can be ran on Ultra in 1080 with no lag or rarely any screen tearing whatsoever, but Space Engineers and a few other games have a hard time running. Do game developers vary in what is used? Like will some companies use RAM primarily while another studio uses GPU or CPU primarily? And Ive been looking into an M.2 as well, just again I have absolutely no idea what I'm needing for what I want basically. I came from consoles and was tired of the load screens, the horrible fps, and the screen tearing that came with it. I've tossed around taking my RIG to a Geek Squad (all that's available in my area besides personal overpriced businesses) technician diagnose my build and such. I'm just completely lost at where to begin basically. I've had a few say my GPU needs to be better, and others say I need more RAM, or better CPU, I'm just confused and not that I'm on a budget clearly for buying such expensive parts day 1, but I'd rather not drop ANOTHER $500 on a GPU or CPU that isn't gonna boast the capability I'm looking for. I know Unreal and Blender are Hogs from hell, I use those far less than originally intended due to my system not being as worthy as I was led on to originally believe. But for Gaming itself I have rather newer stuff, all items are within what a 5yr bracket of being new age tech. So I don't understand why my computer is having as hard of a time as it is, and aside from being forced to keep Steam, Origin, Xbox, or GoG open when I play a game, I don't know what else could be eating my memory like candy causing my system to not perform.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TS_JosephF admin July 5 @Fusionsk8r If you have a lot of programs installed on the PC then they tend to consume your RAM usage even in the background. You can look into uninstalling some programs that you do not use to try and free up some RAM. If your RAM usage is still close to 100% then you might want to consider upgrading.  About the M.2 drive, it will certainly provide a boost in overall performance. An NVMe SSD would be roughly 7 times faster than a 2.5" SSD and over 20 times faster than a standard 3.5" HDD. Now, a lot of gamers have a different set up for their drives. I would recommend a small one for the OS, like 256 GB. Then you could install a 1 TB in the 2nd slot for your games.  In order to know what you should upgrade first, you need to see where your system is bottlenecking. You will have to monitor the CPU, GPU, RAM, and HDD usage while gaming. Whatever is consistently running at a high usage is what you will want to upgrade first. I simply recommend installing an NVMe SSD because it is significantly faster than both SATA SSDs and HDDs.  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Fusionsk8r ✭ July 5 TS_JosephF said: @Fusionsk8r If you have a lot of programs installed on the PC then they tend to consume your RAM usage even in the background. You can look into uninstalling some programs that you do not use to try and free up some RAM. If your RAM usage is still close to 100% then you might want to consider upgrading.  About the M.2 drive, it will certainly provide a boost in overall performance. An NVMe SSD would be roughly 7 times faster than a 2.5" SSD and over 20 times faster than a standard 3.5" HDD. Now, a lot of gamers have a different set up for their drives. I would recommend a small one for the OS, like 256 GB. Then you could install a 1 TB in the 2nd slot for your games.  In order to know what you should upgrade first, you need to see where your system is bottlenecking. You will have to monitor the CPU, GPU, RAM, and HDD usage while gaming. Whatever is consistently running at a high usage is what you will want to upgrade first. I simply recommend installing an NVMe SSD because it is significantly faster than both SATA SSDs and HDDs.  This makes more sense, thank you very much for taking the time to explain this to me. Okay so I'll check out the M.2's first and go from there.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article AMD build Kernel Security Check BSOD windows 10 — Micro Center AMD build Kernel Security Check BSOD windows 10 nickerz ✭ June 23 in Technical Support Questions Hello,  New AMD build having intermittent BSOD and kernel security check error on windows 10. Sometimes BSOD in 30 minutes or 3 hours when playing games. PC first wouldn't even boot with DRAM and CPU mobo lights on. I went to the microcenter and they said it could be the motherboard, RAM, PSU, or CPU. Microcenter had a shortage of motherboards so I exchanged new DDR memory and it powered on. I installed all the drivers and updated bios, and used XMP settings for RAM. There is still a BSOD for kernel security check. I went through a few troubleshooting guides to reinstall all drivers and test each individual stick of memory. I'm still getting BSOD, not sure what to do next. Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks AMD Ryzen 5 3600X Matisse 3.8GHz 6-Core AM4 ASRock X570M PRO4 AMD AM4 mATX Motherboard G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 PowerSpec 850 Watt 80 Plus Gold ATX PowerColor Radeon RX 5600 XT Red Devil Overclocked Dual-Fan Inland Premium 1TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments nickerz ✭ June 23 I also updated GPU firmware 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin June 23 There a good tool that's free for viewing BSOD's on your system: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/bluescreenview.zip   Post a screenshot of what you're seeing in bluescreenview. Also, highlight each instance, we need to see what file it referencing as the cause of the crash and if it's consistent. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 24 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 24 I notice ntoskrnl.exe shows up in each of the entries. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 24 sometimes a dump files is not created. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 24 edited June 24 the most recent restart did not get a BSOD, it was a black screen and the monitor said no signal was coming from the display port 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMichaelB admin June 24 nickerz said: This is interesting. If you look at "caused by driver", it's pointing towards the Microsoft DirectX driver as well as the AMD display driver. Your previous bluescreens show one for a Marvell wireless adapter (MRVW24C) and a BSOD for the network driver in general (NDIS).  nickerz said: the most recent restart did not get a BSOD, it was a black screen and the monitor said no signal was coming from the display port Your most recent BSOD's appear to be pointing to your GPU or AMD drivers. I would advise rolling that graphics driver back and see if that helps at all. As much as I'd hate to suggest it, it might even be worth reinstalling the OS to rule out any corruption from within Windows. That will help rule out any weird software issues. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 24 I already did 2 Windows 10 fresh install. I am not using that wireless adapter and that seemed to fix MRVW24C.  I uninstalled AMD Display adapter and used AMD Cleanup Utility and installed the latest AMD radeon adrenalin graphics drivers.  Let's see if that fixes things? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin June 24 We see the GPU driver referenced in one, but looking at the whole list, it's random, it's not consistent at all. Which says instability to me. In the event viewer, what's the volmgr error say? Also, start by running your windows memory diagnostics. We'll see if we get any failures there. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 24 I ran the full windows memory scan that took ~6 hours and it all passed.  volmgr message: Dump file creation failed due to error during dump creation  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin June 25 Inaccessible drive on an NVME drive. That's a clue. Do you have another HDD you can install an OS on to test with? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 25 I don't have another drive to test with. What test should I run? Can a usb drive be used?  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin June 25 We need to run the OS on something else, that's going to be our most effective test at this point.  The easiest test at this point is to add another drive, set it up and run it normally for 24 hours. See if the problems gone. It's a guess at this point, but this is what we have evidence to support. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 27 I don't have another drive to test with currently. I'll have to get one. I filtered on critical and error in event viewer. Any ideas what these messages mean? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin June 28 Bug check code is VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE. So another reference to the video card. System becomes unresponsive, can't write a memory dump after the BSOD. You've got an NVME drive. Common thread here is the PCIe bus. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ June 30 I replaced ASRock X570M PRO4 AMD AM4 mATX Motherboard with an ASUS TUF GAMING X570-plus wi-fi motherboard. The Asus Tuf didn't come with any screws?????? I went to go get screws. Reformat SSD, used xmp memory profile, Reinstalled windows 10, drivers, updated windows 10, and updated firmware/bios. There was an Error in event viewer for AsusUpdateCheck and I filtered for some errors and critical. The AsusUpdateCheck service did not shut down properly after receiving a preshutdown control. Event ID: 7043 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin June 30 Pretty generic error. So long as the previous issue is resolved I wouldn't be concerned about. All it says is the program hung on the background on shutdown. I don't install it myself, but unless you go into the BIOS and disable armory crate it will install ASUSUpdate and push updates to your system automatically. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 1 spoke too soon. Computer froze when playing a game with Critical Kernel Power Error with no blue screen. Thoughts?  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Ian admin July 1 That's a fairly generic error. What are your temperatures like when playing games / under load?  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 3 edited July 3 I don't think the load was very high. I setup LED lights to show green for temperature load, and yellow and red for higher temperatures. When I was playing all the LEDs were green. Unless there was an unexpected spike? I did a fresh windows 10 install again, and got another blue screen. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 3 I installed the newest AMD 5600 xt drivers already, so I'm not sure what would be causing this thoughts? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin July 4 We're back to the VIDEO_TDR_ERROR BSOD. Which based on the other errors I've seen I'm interpreting as an indicator of instability or another issue than it actually being the video card. You've got the NVME drive so the PCIE bus seems to be our common theme. We need to start swapping parts out. I'd start with the drive, then video card and finally motherboard. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 6 I'm trying to switch out the NVME drive by making a backup on an external drive so I don't have to reinstall all the drivers again. But I'm getting a 0x8007042D error that is stopping the creation of a system image. Any thoughts?  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 7 I went to get another NVME drive, installed windows, updated BIOS, installed drivers and it seems to be working so far.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin July 8 Wasn't in the office for the last few days and didn't see your response. I think that goes back to the possible drive issues and I wouldn't image it given the state the OS possibly was in after so many crashes. Indicates a problem with the backup service. You could use something like Macrium Reflect and backup an image to restore. Keep any eye on it and let us know if  you have any other issues. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 8 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 8 nope, just had another crash, Guess I'll try replacing the graphics card 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin July 8 That's the most logical course of action at this point. Let us know if the issues persist. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter nickerz ✭ July 9 I've been looking up 5600 xt driver crashes online. I thought the driver updates were supposed to fix all these crash issues? Have you seen many reports of 5600 and 5700 crashes?  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin July 9 Yes, I've seen a number of driver crashes with 5000 series cards that seemed to be hardware related, along with cards that just under-performed inexplicably. Whether it's higher than your typical GPU failure rate is difficult to say. Keep in mind, we work in technical support. We only really hear about things when they're not working properly. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. 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Community Article 2060 KO PPD? update: seeing ~1.1MilPPD — Micro Center 2060 KO PPD? update: seeing ~1.1MilPPD cine_chris Powder Springs, GA ✭✭✭ May 8 edited May 15 in Graphics Cards Hoping to find someone that has run FAHbench &/or has actual data on the EVGA 2060 KO GPUs.  They look to be interesting based on $/PPD basis.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin May 8 edited May 8 Hello @cine_chris! Welcome to the Community.  Gamers Nexus is my go-to when it comes to benchmarking data and technical overview of components. They have a review on the EVGA 2060 KO specifically here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUFRBnJdx3Y It's a pretty thorough breakdown and highlights how the 2060 KO is different from other 2060 cards. In terms of gaming, the 2060 KO is the same as normal RTX 2060 cards but the 2060 KO is different in that it has advantages in workstation applications. This is their original review of the 2060 and covers more benchmarks in games: https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3427-nvidia-rtx-2060-founders-edition-review-benchmark-vs-vega-56. They also have a video you can watch covering that information, it's embedded on that page. For gaming performance I'd refer to this guide.  I didn't see FAHbench listed in either guide, but the 2060 KO is a strong option at its price point. It's definitely a much stronger value than the other 2060 models since it undercuts their prices by a decent margin.  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter cine_chris Powder Springs, GA ✭✭✭ May 10 edited May 10 Thx @TSTonyV, yes, that was an informative video.  I'm not a gamer, but cine-editing, vfx work & [email protected] have shoved me into the GPU universe.  I'm a retired engineer so it's fun for me to look at repurposing old gear for folding platforms and looking at optimizing gear combos for folding.  Part of my repurpose strategy is to use 'open-box' MC gear, I'll be picking up the KO Ultra tomorrow  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMichaelB admin May 10 edited May 10 cine_chris said: Thx @TSTonyV, yes, that was an informative video.  I'm not a gamer, but cine-editing, vfx work & [email protected] have shoved me into the GPU universe.  I'm a retired engineer so it's fun for me to look at repurposing old gear for folding platforms and looking at optimizing gear combos for folding.  Part of my repurpose strategy is to us 'open-box' MC gear, I'll be picking up the KO Ultra tomorrow  Based on some of the results I found online, it appears that the RTX 2060 KO is beating 1080 Ti's when it comes to PPD. Since it technically uses the same TU104 die as the RTX 2080's, it's folding performance is extremely solid for the price, however there is a caveat you must be really aware of. While the die itself is a cutdown RTX 2080, the PCB and cooler is the same used for the GTX 1650 Super GTX 1660 Super. For typical gaming loads, this is fine, but sustained folding might not end well in the long run. If you do go this route, make sure that you have active cooling on the card with an additional fan of some kind, cooling both the PCB on the back and perhaps provide additional intake airflow for the two fans on the side. Edited to correct GPU PCB mistake. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter cine_chris Powder Springs, GA ✭✭✭ May 15 @TSMichaelB I'm a retired engineer &Ace'd thermo, so I have a keen sensitivity to op-temps & thermo-cycling (an arcane fatigue concept).  I'm using Afterburner w/ a custom fan profile to minimize temp-cycles and op-temps.  Mounting exo-120mm fans to feed in room air.  Yes, the KO is running consistently in the 1.1MilPPD range when I've checked it.  More importantly, it handles the WUs that the 1660s have been choking on.  For me, the MSI 2060 Super has been the best performer.  You can see I'm very utilitarian by the Z87 mobo in the image  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter cine_chris Powder Springs, GA ✭✭✭ May 18 TSMichaelB said: cine_chris said: . While the die itself is a cutdown RTX 2080, the PCB and cooler is the same used for the GTX 1650 Super GTX 1660 Super. For typical gaming loads, this is fine, but sustained folding might not end well in the long run. If you do go this route, make sure that you have active cooling on the card with an additional fan of some kind, cooling both the PCB on the back and perhaps provide additional intake airflow for the two fans on the side. @TSMichaelB I found your comments about the KO card to be useful.  Combining my impressions with power consumption data from Tom's Hdwr, it's clear to me that the KO isn't an optimal choice for folding.  It is the most consistently good GPU that I've tried for folding as it always seems to be hovering around 1.1 milPPD and likely an ideal choice for a mixed gamer/creative user that wants to leverage it's render features.   0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMichaelB admin May 18 cine_chris said: TSMichaelB said: cine_chris said: . While the die itself is a cutdown RTX 2080, the PCB and cooler is the same used for the GTX 1650 Super GTX 1660 Super. For typical gaming loads, this is fine, but sustained folding might not end well in the long run. If you do go this route, make sure that you have active cooling on the card with an additional fan of some kind, cooling both the PCB on the back and perhaps provide additional intake airflow for the two fans on the side. @TSMichaelB I found your comments about the KO card to be useful.  Combining my impressions with power consumption data from Tom's Hdwr, it's clear to me that the KO isn't an optimal choice for folding.  It is the most consistently good GPU that I've tried for folding as it always seems to be hovering around 1.1 milPPD and likely an ideal choice for a mixed gamer/creative user that wants to leverage it's render features.   Glad it was helpful. My biggest concerns was with the cooling and PCB design being different than that of standards RTX 2060's. For burst gaming loads I imagine it's a non-issue, but under the constant load of folding, I worry for the longevity of the card.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article RTX 3000 Series Micro Center Discussion & FAQ! — Micro Center RTX 3000 Series Micro Center Discussion & FAQ! TSTonyV admin September 1 edited October 2 in Graphics Cards [FAQ Updated 2:56pm ET 10/2]* So in case anybody missed it, just earlier today NVIDIA did their announcement stream for the new RTX 3000 series cards.  The main thing I took away was obviously ray tracing performance making huge leaps forward. Double the performance of previous generation with ray tracing on. What I'm curious about will be benchmarks in non-ray tracing games, but we'll probably have to wait for reviewers to come out with those details.  There was a lot of information packed in from pricing to performance and features, so I'm curious, what are you looking forward to? Do you plan on upgrading your rig? Do you like the new look? Do you think the RTX 3090 should come with a GPU support bracket in the box considering how gigantic it is? FAQ: Availability for NVIDIA RTX 3000 Series Graphics Cards We know demand for these new graphics cards is high. We’re working hard to make these new, exciting products available to as many customers as we can. Please see below for answers to popular questions. You may also post your question here and we’ll do our best to respond quickly.   Q.) Will you have the 3070/3080/3090 cards on the release dates? A.) Yes, we will have a variety of top brand RTX 3000 cards available on their respective launch dates: RTX 3080        Thursday, September 17th RTX 3090        Thursday, September 24th RTX 3070        Thursday, October 29th*   Q.) Which RTX3000 graphics cards will be available? A.)  We will have RTX 3000 series graphics cards from our top vendors: ASUS, Gigabyte, Zotac, EVGA, and MSI, including gaming and overclocked models. These will vary store to store. Available models will be listed in the graphics cards category at launch.   Q.) How many will you have in stock? A.) We are expecting a very limited quantity of cards for the RTX 3090 launch on Thursday the 24th. We anticipate quantities of less than 10 in total per store.  We are working hard to get these cards in as quickly as possible, and are going above and beyond our normal shipping processes.   Q.) How much will the 3000 Series video cards cost? A.) Up-to-date pricing for our cards will be posted on the website once they’re available.   Store Related Questions Q.) Are you doing pre-orders? A.) At this time, we will not be offering pre-orders.   Q.) Will I be able to reserve or buy them online? A.) We will not be offering reservations for in-store pick-up, or shipping for these video cards due to the high demand.  Q.) When will vouchers be handed out? A) Our voucher system operates on a local response and first-come, first-served basis. See your local store for more details. Q.) How many vouchers will be handed out? A.) Stores will be handing out vouchers for the cards in stock at that location. Once all vouchers have been distributed, the store will post a sign stating they are sold out. Q.) Are you planning to open early on the release dates? A.) We will be operating with regular store hours from 10am-9pm M-S and 11am-6pm Sunday.  Q.) What are you doing to handle demand? A.) Given the current pandemic, we want to avoid having lines outside of the store, in order to keep everyone as safe as possible. We ask that you continue to do your part in following CDC social distancing guidelines.   Q.) Can I buy more than one?  A.) We will be limiting purchases at this time to one per household. With limited availability, we want all of our customers to have a chance to be a part of this new product release. Q.) Were Micro Center Associates able to buy the new graphics cards? A.) As with many high demand products at launch, we put restrictions on employee purchases for the first 30 days so we can get new products into the hands of our loyal customers. 11 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter «1234567…50» Go Comments Green_LED STL ✭ September 1 I'm really looking forward to some benchmarks to come out. Hopefully AMD has good enough competition so NVIDIA drops prices. The new look is sleek and modern but the 3090 is so massive there's no way GPU sag won't be an issue. NVIDIA said 3090 drops on Sept. 24th on their website but I wonder when Micro Center will get it in stock. Overall the results look promising and I hope the benchmarks reflect what they released! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Ichthus ✭ September 1 Green_LED said: I'm really looking forward to some benchmarks to come out. Hopefully AMD has good enough competition so NVIDIA drops prices. The new look is sleek and modern but the 3090 is so massive there's no way GPU sag won't be an issue. NVIDIA said 3090 drops on Sept. 24th on their website but I wonder when Micro Center will get it in stock. Overall the results look promising and I hope the benchmarks reflect what they released! Yeah, real benchmarks I think are definitely going to be important. The stream showed performance with both Ray Tracing and DLSS 2.0 on but there are a ton of games out there that don't support either of those. If we're getting a 2x performance increase even out of those situations, RIP everybody who bought a 2080ti in the last couple months.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Green_LED STL ✭ September 1 Ichthus said: Yeah, real benchmarks I think are definitely going to be important. The stream showed performance with both Ray Tracing and DLSS 2.0 on but there are a ton of games out there that don't support either of those. If we're getting a 2x performance increase even out of those situations, RIP everybody who bought a 2080ti in the last couple months.  I'm honestly a bit disappointed that the price was higher than originally thought / what was leaked. I thought 1400 was perfect for a Titan class performance card. Guess I'm going to need to save a bit in these coming weeks. I haven't traditionally followed GPU releases. When should benchmarks be released? After card release date or before? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter AidanOG ✭ September 1 If I heard correctly at the GeForce event today, the 3080 comes out on the 17th of september. Does anyone know when Microcenter usually gets parts after they come out? I am waiting to get my hands on the RTX 3080 so I can build a new gaming pc. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 1 edited September 1 Green_LED said: Ichthus said: Yeah, real benchmarks I think are definitely going to be important. The stream showed performance with both Ray Tracing and DLSS 2.0 on but there are a ton of games out there that don't support either of those. If we're getting a 2x performance increase even out of those situations, RIP everybody who bought a 2080ti in the last couple months.  I'm honestly a bit disappointed that the price was higher than originally thought / what was leaked. I thought 1400 was perfect for a Titan class performance card. Guess I'm going to need to save a bit in these coming weeks. I haven't traditionally followed GPU releases. When should benchmarks be released? After card release date or before? Only the 3090 is above the leaked pricing that we saw before, and in reality sinceit's the replacement for the RTX Titan I'm not too upset about it. There might be a 3080ti type card that occupies the slot in between the 3080 and 3090 released later. The 3070 and 3080 are both at the same MSRP as the 2070/2080 respectively which was a nice surprise. For $500 the 3070 looks like it may be a very strong price:performance ratio and it may become the new GTX 970. Can't wait for full reviews to come in. I may upgrade my 2080 Super if everything shapes up well... AidanOG said: If I heard correctly at the GeForce event today, the 3080 comes out on the 17th of september. Does anyone know when Microcenter usually gets parts after they come out? I am waiting to get my hands on the RTX 3080 so I can build a new gaming pc. We try to have parts available on the day they actually release, especially for big releases like GPUs,  but yields and availability have been really odd for PC parts since COVID started and for all we know they just might not have the stock at the beginning. I expect we'll probably have them on release day but we don't know for sure yet. Hopefully we get some more information in the future.  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Waffler Cleveland, OH ✭ September 1 Well! Sure glad I didn't pony up for a 2070 Super like I planned. Looks like the 3070 will be plenty for glorious ultra widescreen 2K gaming! Is there not going to be a 3060 variant, though? No mention that I could see. 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 1 There will be, they always release the higher end stuff and fill out the lower end of the product stack later.  I've been doing some reading on NVIDIA's articles that went up and I think I'm most excited for RTX I/O. Looks to be the same concept as the PS5 where they load/stream assets directly from SSD to the GPU to bypass the CPU and increase loading times substantially. But it's not going to be widely available for a while because Windows and developers will have to specifically implement it which is a downside. However, I think it bodes well for the future and could give a real reason for average users to have NVMe SSDs 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Waffler Cleveland, OH ✭ September 1 TSTonyV said: I've been doing some reading on NVIDIA's articles that went up and I think I'm most excited for RTX I/O. Looks to be the same concept as the PS5 where they load/stream assets directly from SSD to the GPU to bypass the CPU and increase loading times substantially. Agreed. *ahem* Looking at you MS Flight Simulator 2020... 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 1 Waffler said: TSTonyV said: I've been doing some reading on NVIDIA's articles that went up and I think I'm most excited for RTX I/O. Looks to be the same concept as the PS5 where they load/stream assets directly from SSD to the GPU to bypass the CPU and increase loading times substantially. Agreed. *ahem* Looking at you MS Flight Simulator 2020... Nevermind the fact that they're running Flight Sim 2020 on DX11 with no DX12 support... 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin September 1 I'm looking to upgrade from a 2070 Super to a 3070.... as well as gaming performance, I'm hoping it'll really do well folding with more than double the cuda cores.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 2 edited September 2 ryau said: I'm looking to upgrade from a 2070 Super to a 3070.... as well as gaming performance, I'm hoping it'll really do well folding with more than double the cuda cores.  I heard that something with the CUDA core design/implementation has changed, so it's not ACTUALLY double in practice. I could be wrong about this, as I can't find a source that clearly talks about this, but I definitely remember reading this somewhere. Maybe I'm wrong. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin September 2 TSTonyV said: ryau said: I'm looking to upgrade from a 2070 Super to a 3070.... as well as gaming performance, I'm hoping it'll really do well folding with more than double the cuda cores.  I heard that something with the CUDA core design/implementation has changed, so it's not ACTUALLY double in practice. I could be wrong about this, as I can't find a source that clearly talks about this, but I definitely remember reading this somewhere. Maybe I'm wrong. Makes sense since they're on a new architecture, I guess we'll just have to wait and see. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 2 edited September 2 ryau said: TSTonyV said: ryau said: I'm looking to upgrade from a 2070 Super to a 3070.... as well as gaming performance, I'm hoping it'll really do well folding with more than double the cuda cores.  I heard that something with the CUDA core design/implementation has changed, so it's not ACTUALLY double in practice. I could be wrong about this, as I can't find a source that clearly talks about this, but I definitely remember reading this somewhere. Maybe I'm wrong. Makes sense since they're on a new architecture, I guess we'll just have to wait and see. Yeah, I finally found some discussion on Reddit about it.  https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/ikok1b/explaining_amperes_cuda_core_count/ I don't know understand the technical aspects but basically the way the CUDA cores in the new Ampere GPUs operate is different and if you want to get a more realistic comparison of the cores, you should divide NVIDIA's core count on the new GPUs in half. So for the 3080 vs 2080 it's 8704/2 = 4352, vs 2944 of the RTX 2080. There's probably more to it than that, but that's the general idea as far as I can tell Edit: so as of conversing with @TSMichaelB, he's offered me some clarity and that the reddit thread I linked doesn't quite have it right. You can't just directly compare the core counts and then cut them in half like that without knowing more about the rest of the tech in the cards. There's a lot more factors at play in the architecture, and it's not correct to say that each core is just "half performance" or anything like that because we don't have all the information yet.  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter KidCookie ✭ September 3 Not sure if this was answered, but has MicroCenter been able to say whether or not they are sellign the 30 series NVIDIA cards on the 17th? And if so, are you able to pre-order? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSPhillipT admin September 3 @KidCookie We do not do pre-orders and our stock should update online as soon as we get the cards in.   0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter crobot ✭ September 3 edited September 3 TSPhillipT said: @KidCookie We do not do pre-orders and our stock should update online as soon as we get the cards in.   Can you clarify if that stock will appear online prior to release date of the 17th (or at least prior to doors opening)? Ideally if stock is limited and we're getting their before MC doors open, it'd be useful to know which AIB's are available and what the prices are going to be. Also, are there any specific plans for how a line situation would be handled with covid? If the product releases on the 17th, will we need to get there and claim the cards in person (as in, no online purchases), or can they be purchased prior to doors opening and held for pickup/curbside? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter GTAWWEKID ✭ September 3 I would also like to know which store will have it on day 1 and how many. I have the funds to pay full price today, yet 2 weeks away from release with no pre-orders and lack of information of availability. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSPhillipT admin September 3 @crobot Stock should show up online before doors open the day we get them in.  I cannot guarantee any of our stores will have it day 1 and we have no information on which stores are receiving them on release date.  We also do not know which board partners our stores will be receiving and when.  Stock online will be updated when we do get them in.   For line, I have not heard any changes in our system, customers can wait/camp in front of the store.  When we will be getting closer to open, we will begin implementing a wait list system if the line over caps our store limit.  This is all currently how we are handling the opening rush.   0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMichaelB admin September 3 TSTonyV said: ryau said: TSTonyV said: ryau said: I'm looking to upgrade from a 2070 Super to a 3070.... as well as gaming performance, I'm hoping it'll really do well folding with more than double the cuda cores.  I heard that something with the CUDA core design/implementation has changed, so it's not ACTUALLY double in practice. I could be wrong about this, as I can't find a source that clearly talks about this, but I definitely remember reading this somewhere. Maybe I'm wrong. Makes sense since they're on a new architecture, I guess we'll just have to wait and see. Yeah, I finally found some discussion on Reddit about it.  https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/ikok1b/explaining_amperes_cuda_core_count/ I don't know understand the technical aspects but basically the way the CUDA cores in the new Ampere GPUs operate is different and if you want to get a more realistic comparison of the cores, you should divide NVIDIA's core count on the new GPUs in half. So for the 3080 vs 2080 it's 8704/2 = 4352, vs 2944 of the RTX 2080. There's probably more to it than that, but that's the general idea as far as I can tell Edit: so as of conversing with @TSMichaelB, he's offered me some clarity and that the reddit thread I linked doesn't quite have it right. You can't just directly compare the core counts and then cut them in half like that without knowing more about the rest of the tech in the cards. There's a lot more factors at play in the architecture, and it's not correct to say that each core is just "half performance" or anything like that because we don't have all the information yet.  Yeah... To further clarify on this, you can't simply compare CUDA core counts or "paper specs" when making a comparison between older and newer hardware architectures. There is so much going on under the hood that it's not even remotely close to being accurate. The biggest specifications (Texture Maping Units, Render Output Units, etc) have yet to be revealed, and those play a much larger role than just CUDA cores by themselves. That being said, there are some interesting charts floating around online that appear to show Ampere's architecture topology, and it definitely has some key differences to Turing. (Source: Hardwareluxx) The image above appears to show the architecture topology of Ampere (RTX 3000 series). Pay close attention to the "Datapath 1" and "Datapath 2" sections. This is the part that is confusing most people and leading them to believe that the actual CUDA core counts are "inflated". This is not the case. Nvidia confirmed that these datapaths are not independent of one another, and can be access simultaneously. This means each SM cluster can do either 32 FP32 operations per clock, OR 16 FP32 and 16 INT32 operations per clock. To put this into perspective, Turing's design could only do 16FP 32 and 16 INT32, it was unable to interleave or run parallel across both datapaths for a theoretical doubled FP32 throughput as it only had a single datapath to begin with. Now what this does mean, is that Ampere's INT32 performance may or may not be much better compared to Turing, but this is yet to be seen, pending some hands on testing. It's important to remember that the cache design is different here too, as Nvidia also doubled the shared memory and L1 cache for the larger SM's to accommodate this change in datapath design. The takeaway is that the actual SM's themselves that make up the CUDA core configurations are fundamentally different and cannot be compared 1:1. In fact, you'll be hard pressed to compare any architectural change between GPU's on a 1:1 scale due to how quickly technology evolves.  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Zwarrior972 ✭ September 3 HI! Was wondering if you'll have the cards in stock day 1? i.e Will I be able to order/buy an RTX 3080 in person on the 17th of september? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter GucciGoose ✭ September 4 edited September 4 If the 3080’s are available on day 1, would you be able to reserve for in store pickup or is it going to be first come first serve in person only? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 4 Zwarrior972 said: HI! Was wondering if you'll have the cards in stock day 1? i.e Will I be able to order/buy an RTX 3080 in person on the 17th of september? I believe we are planning to have them on day 1, but we don't know what availability is going to look like yet unfortunately. I've heard reports of low availability on launch from NVIDIA so we don't know for sure what the situation will look like yet.  GucciGoose said: If the 3080’s are available on day 1, would you be able to reserve for in store pickup or is it going to be first come first serve in person only? Normally with new big releases like this reservations are not available at first because of how high demand is so I would expect these to be first-come-first served to start off with. I could be wrong about that, but that's usually how these things go.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Waffler Cleveland, OH ✭ September 4 It's funny, my birthday is actually 9/17. I'd treat myself to a 3070 if I had the money for it... 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Enamelized Va ✭ September 4 I've been awaiting the information about the Nvidia RTX30 series and really looking forward to picking up a 3080. Would love to be able to grab a 3090 but just think it would be a bit much and that price really just makes it out of my range unfortunately. I do like the overall look of the new cards and the whole air intake and exhaust out the back of your case to help improve cooling. Certainly looking forward to some benchmarks to show some additional data on the performance we heard about. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 4 If anybody is interested, Digital Foundry did a test of the 3080 and they saw 70-90% performance gains vs. the 2080, which matches up well with NVIDIA's "Up to 2x performance" claim.  They don't list actual FPS, probably for NDA reasons or something like that, but Digital Foundry is a reliable source so this has a lot of merit.  1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Enamelized Va ✭ September 4 that was an Interesting watch, thanks for sharing @TSTonyV 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 4 edited September 4 I think it's very promising. Obviously the titles and situations in the games were curated by NVIDIA but they showed off some RT/DLSS scenarios and pure rasterization scenarios so I think this is a good indication of what we can expect in general, at least at higher resolutions. I'm hoping to hit that perfect 144FPS at 1440p in the more graphically intense games which looks to be very reasonable given the 4k performance shown off. Hopefully we see similar gains in other titles, I have my hopes up.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TheGameKiller_12 ✭ September 4 edited September 4 Recently bought a 1660 ti gaming x not sure if it will be a good idea to return it and get the rtx 3070. Any suggestions? Or maybe wait a while before returning it. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 4 TheGameKiller_12 said: Recently bought a 1660 ti gaming x not sure if it will be a good idea to return it and get the rtx 3070. Any suggestions? The 3070 is quite a bit more expensive than the 1660ti, they're in different price/performance tiers.  That said, what I do expect to happen is the current gen cards to change pricing, and we may see some of the cards drop down closer to the current 1660ti price tier that were previously much more expensive. Our cards have a 30-day return period 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TheGameKiller_12 ✭ September 5 I see so it will be best to just keep the card I have instead of spending the extra money for the 3070? My pc is able to watch 8k videos, I have 16gb ddr4 3200, gtx 1660ti gaming x, m.2 1tb, 650 psu, and a ryzen 5 3600 with a asus B450-F rog strix 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter «1234567…50» Go Sign In or Register to comment.