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Community Article PSU Causing Boot Loop In 1 Machine, Not Another? — Micro Center PSU Causing Boot Loop In 1 Machine, Not Another? ofrivia ✭ May 2 in Technical Support Questions TLDR: Can a PSU cause a boot loop in one machine but not another? Built a machine in the winter. Here are the components https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GhGyf9 I have had issues with boot looping. I reseated CPU, tested ram, replaced mobo.  Finally, I swapped the Corsair CX750 PSU with the Corsair HX750 in my work computer. That seemed to solve the issue. I had it checked out by Microcenter and they said they did not see any issues. However I've since identified an issue. When running high graphic games like The Witcher 3 or  HellBlade:Senua's Sacrifice the machine will reset. No issues when playing less intense games like OctoPath Traveller or Ori and the blind forest. I built this PC with the geforce 2080 to play all my games, not just the less graphic intense ones.  So thats the situation. With the HX750 the machine works but wont let me play graphic intense games. With the CX750 it boot loops as soon as it enters windows.   Again, Microcenter saw no issue when they had it. I'm scratching my head here and frustrated with an expensive machine that doesn't do everything I built it to do.  Thoughts? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSMikeW admin May 3 It does make sense that you're getting a bit further on the HX750. HX series are generally top quality units. It's more efficient.  To that end, have you considered that the issue may be with the outlet, cord or surge protector? I would try to rule those out as possible factors. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ofrivia ✭ May 5 Hey Mike, thanks for the reply. I have tried it plugged into 3 different outlets, and used a different power cord (From my computer that is working fine). Also tried surge protector ( I did the power strip). The HX750 works fine, only rebooting on the graphic intense games. The CX boot loops upon entering windows.  Do you think I just need to get an entirely different, and stronger, PSU? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin May 5 You've swapped out the power cord as well? It's rare, but I've encountered at least one instance of a bad power cable causing random reboots. At this point another higher wattage PSU is worth trying, given what you've gone through, but your system as configured based on the link, should run fine on a 650W. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article $1 Holds — Micro Center $1 Holds BlackRain ✭ June 27 in Customer Service Questions I have 5 holds from Micro Center for 5 reservations, 4 of which were canceled. I read somewhere on the forums that it would take 3 days for them to be refunded, but it has been beyond that window, the earliest one being exactly 6 days from today and the latest one being 3. I just want to know when I'll get my money refunded for the older holds because it seems to be taking way longer than expected. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin June 27 Hello @BlackRain! Welcome to the Community.  That's actually going to depend on your card/bank more than anything. In my experience 3-5 business days is fairly typical for an authorization hold to fall off, but that could potentially vary. There's nothing to actually "refund" as we never directly withdrew funds from the card, so we can't expedite the process, but if you contact your bank/cardholder they may be able to help you out.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Web Page Micro Center Service Tier 1 Custom PC Build - Micro Center Skip to Main Content Area Site Selections: Account Login, Store Selection, Cart Information Insider Account: Sign in Create Account My Store: Shippable Items Shippable Items Store Info Change Shippable Items Close Modal Choose your store to see our full product selection with local pricing and availability The best deals are in-store only! 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Available for In-Store Pickup Only. $149.99 PICK UP IN 18 MINUTES Please Select Your Store CA - Tustin (in stock) CO - Denver (in stock) GA - Duluth (in stock) GA - Marietta (in stock) IL - Chicago (in stock) IL - Westmont (in stock) KS - Overland Park (in stock) MA - Cambridge (in stock) MD - Rockville (in stock) MD - Parkville (in stock) MI - Madison Heights (in stock) MN - St. Louis Park (in stock) MO - Brentwood (in stock) NJ - North Jersey (in stock) NY - Westbury (in stock) NY - Brooklyn (in stock) NY - Flushing (in stock) NY - Yonkers (in stock) OH - Columbus (in stock) OH - Mayfield Heights (in stock) OH - Sharonville (in stock) PA - St. Davids (in stock) TX - Houston (in stock) TX - Dallas (in stock) VA - Fairfax (in stock)   Overview Specs Reviews Q & A Warranty & Support Overview SKU: 862938 Mfr Part #: KB CUST-BUILD-1 UPC: Like us on facebook Tier 1: Basic Build without the Operating System Choose Tier 1 service to build an air cooled PC that meets your speed, performance, and storage needs. All you need to do is install the operating system of your choice, and you will be good to go. Tier 1 Computer Parts CPU and CPU fan Motherboard RAM Graphics card SSD or hard disk drive Power supply unit Case Tier 1 also covers the installation of these optional components: additional fan, additional drives, WiFi cards, and video capture cards. Services Same day, if checked in 4 hours before closing* Free consultation and help selecting compatible components Built by a dedicated, highly qualified Build Technician POST Test to confirm function 90-day warranty on parts and labor - longer warranties available No extra charge for specific cable routing, fan placement, and RGB wiring * Note: Service times may be longer if we need to order parts from a supplier. Your technician will provide an estimated pick up date when creating the work order. Additional Services Tier 2 Build also includes Installation of Windows Schedule Now Specifications Product Information SKU 862938 Mfr Part# KB CUST-BUILD-1 UPC Important Add-Ons Reviews Questions and Answers More Info Warranty & Support Micro Center Return Policy: We guarantee your satisfaction on every product we sell with a full refund — and you won’t even need a receipt.* We want you to be satisfied with your Micro Center purchase. However, if you need help or need to return an item, we’re here for you! If an item you have purchased from us is not working as expected, please visit one of our in-store Knowledge Experts for free help, where they can solve your problem or even exchange the item for a product that better suits your needs. If you need to return an item, simply bring it back to any Micro Center store for a full refund or exchange. *If you are a Micro Center Insider or if you have provided us with validated contact information (name, address, email address), you won’t even need your receipt. General Return Policy Desktop / notebook computers, tablets, processors, motherboards, digital cameras, camcorders and projectors, 3D printers, 3D scanners, and CD/DVD duplicators may be returned within 15 days of purchase. All other products may be returned within 30 days of purchase. Merchandise must be in new condition, with original carton / UPC, and all packaging / accessories / materials. If you need to return software, a game or a movie, remember that you may not retain any copies — it’s not legal, and it’s not nice. Digital Downloads All Digital Download sales are final and are not eligible for return or refund under the Micro Center Return Policy. 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When returning a wireless phone or device with a plan, you are responsible for ensuring that your service is cancelled with the carrier. If you don’t cancel your service, you may incur additional charges from your carrier. All carrier charges are your responsibility. Refunds will be credited to the credit card or debit card account used for the original purchase.   Micro Center Support: Walk-in Tech Support As a service to our customers, Micro Center offers in-store technical support. 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Please select a store below: Shippable Items CA - Tustin CO - Denver GA - Duluth GA - Marietta IL - Chicago IL - Westmont KS - Overland Park MA - Cambridge MD - Rockville MD - Parkville MI - Madison Heights MN - St. Louis Park MO - Brentwood NJ - North Jersey NY - Westbury NY - Brooklyn NY - Flushing NY - Yonkers OH - Columbus OH - Mayfield Heights OH - Sharonville PA - St. Davids TX - Houston TX - Dallas VA - Fairfax Shippable Items Cart Search Search for items Begin Search Product Search Form Search for product General Site Navigation 18 MINUTE IN-STORE PICKUP Community Customer Support Online Catalog Service & Repair Product category and brand navigation Products Navigation Refurbished Deals Refurbished Deals options - 6 groups of items - 20 total selections Computers Desktops Laptops / Netbooks iPads / Tablets View All Computer Parts Video Cards Hard Drives & Data Storage Keyboards & Mice View All Accessories Printer Supplies Surge Protectors & UPS AC Adapters & Power Inverters View All Electronics LED Monitors LED/LCD HDTVs Printers View All Other Categories Apple Networking Gaming Explore All Categories View All Refurbished Products Clearance Clearance options - 2 groups of items - 18 total selections Closeouts Computers Apple Computer Parts Electronics Networking Accessories Gaming Software Books View All Closeouts Open Box Computers Apple Computer Parts Electronics Networking Accessories Gaming View All Open Box Hot Ad Deals Hot Ad Deals options - 6 groups of items - 22 total selections Computers Desktops Laptops iPads & Tablets View All Computers Accessories CD/DVD/Blu-ray Media CD/DVD Storage & Cases Surge Protectors & UPS View All Accessories Computer Parts Computer Memory Hard Drives & Storage Video Cards View All Computer Parts Other Hot Ad Deals Networking Software Gaming Hobby Electronics Electronics LED Monitors & HDTVs Flash Memory & USB Drives Printers View All Electronics Explore All Categories Shop our Online Catalog View All Hot Ad Deals Computers Computers options - 5 groups of items - 22 total selections Desktop Computing All Desktops PC Desktops Apple Desktops Gaming Desktops All-in-One Desktops Servers Portable Computing All Laptops / Notebooks 2-in-1 Laptops Gaming Laptops Apple Laptops iPads / Tablets Portable Accessories PC Laptop Accessories Mac Laptop Accessories iPad & Tablet Accessories Peripherals Monitors Printers 3D Printing Keyboards Mice Scanners Projectors Explore All Categories View All Shop Refurbished Systems with full 90 day warranties! 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Cut the Cord! 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Available for In-Store Pickup Only. $199.99 PICK UP IN 18 MINUTES Please Select Your Store CA - Tustin (in stock) CO - Denver (in stock) GA - Duluth (in stock) GA - Marietta (in stock) IL - Chicago (in stock) IL - Westmont (in stock) KS - Overland Park (in stock) MA - Cambridge (in stock) MD - Rockville (in stock) MD - Parkville (in stock) MI - Madison Heights (in stock) MN - St. Louis Park (in stock) MO - Brentwood (in stock) NJ - North Jersey (in stock) NY - Westbury (in stock) NY - Brooklyn (in stock) NY - Flushing (in stock) NY - Yonkers (in stock) OH - Columbus (in stock) OH - Mayfield Heights (in stock) OH - Sharonville (in stock) PA - St. Davids (in stock) TX - Houston (in stock) TX - Dallas (in stock) VA - Fairfax (in stock)   Overview Specs Reviews Q & A Warranty & Support Overview SKU: 983312 Mfr Part #: BUILD-T1 UPC: Like us on facebook Tier 1 Rebuild: Everything but the Operating System If you built a custom air cooled PC that is not working as expected, we can help. Our Build Technicians will identify and resolve any issues and rebuild your computer for optimal performance. With our signature fast service, your rebuilt PC will typically be ready within one business day. Are you looking for a diagnosis only, so you can fix the PC yourself? A Build Technician can diagnose issues with your custom PC for just $39.99 Tier 1 Components CPU and CPU fan Motherboard RAM Graphics card SSD or hard disk drive Power supply unit Case Tier 1 also covers the installation of these optional components: additional fan, additional drives, WiFi cards, and video capture cards. 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Additional Services Rebuild Tier 2 includes Installation of Windows Schedule Now Specifications Product Information SKU 983312 Mfr Part# BUILD-T1 UPC Important Add-Ons Reviews Questions and Answers More Info Warranty & Support Micro Center Return Policy: We guarantee your satisfaction on every product we sell with a full refund — and you won’t even need a receipt.* We want you to be satisfied with your Micro Center purchase. However, if you need help or need to return an item, we’re here for you! If an item you have purchased from us is not working as expected, please visit one of our in-store Knowledge Experts for free help, where they can solve your problem or even exchange the item for a product that better suits your needs. 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About Micro Center Accessibility Policy California Privacy Rights Do Not Sell My Information Privacy Policy Terms and Conditions: Site Terms and Conditions: Sale Copyrights & Trademarks Account Sign In We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website. You can view our Privacy Policy and information reqarding our use of cookies here. X Accept Privacy Policy and Terms X Temporarily Hide Alert Community Article How to fix when your monitor won’t display — Micro Center How to fix when your monitor won’t display Ian admin April 30 edited September 5 in Technical Support Questions Hello! Welcome to the Micro Center Community. Today I'm going to be covering one of the most common issues that we hear about: “My monitor isn’t showing anything!” There’s a lot of different things that could cause this, but there are a few things you can do pretty quickly to troubleshoot it yourself. Click the links below to jump to a specific troubleshooting step! Make sure you only have one video cable plugged into your monitor Make sure your monitor is plugged into the right port on the back of your PC Power Cycle/Clear Caps on your computer Check the monitor input setting. Test another monitor or cable. 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin August 11 edited August 11 1. Make sure you only have one video cable plugged into your monitor Only one cable should be connected from the computer to the monitor for display. While your monitor and PC have multiple video ports available, these are simply to allow more flexibility and add more monitors if you need them.  First, power down your desktop by holding the power button in for 5-10 seconds. While powered off, disconnect one of the cables from the computer and monitor. Now press the power button to turn the desktop back on. Allow the computer to boot backup normally, and your monitor should display properly.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin August 11 edited August 12 2. Make sure your monitor is plugged into the right port on the back of your PC When looking at the back of your PC, you will see a variety of ports. The motherboard in your computer will have USB ports, audio ports and video ports on the back. However, depending on the hardware in your computer you can’t always use the video ports on the motherboard. If your computer has a dedicated video card, your monitor needs to plug directly into it.  In the example picture the area labeled #1 is the onboard video ports on the motherboard. All ports will be labeled next to their port with symbols/text such as DVI, HDMI, DP and VGA. The area labeled #2 is the video card.  If there is a video card in your system the motherboard video ports won’t work by default.  You need to use the video card instead. If you cannot find the ports you are looking for on your video card, they may be covered/capped, which is very common a new computer/video card. In the example below, the DisplayPort (on the top) and DVI port (on the bottom) are covered: These ports are fully functional but are covered to protect the slot when not in use. Just pull those covers off and reveal the available video ports and you’ll be able to use them.  If your display doesn’t show up after switching your cable to the video card, you may need to power cycle your computer.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin August 11 edited August 11 3. Power Cycle/Clear Caps on your computer Once your cables are all in order, most likely your system will be showing something. If not, one easy step you can do is what we call “clearing caps.” Hold the power button down on your computer until it shuts off. Once it’s shut off, disconnect the power cable from the back of the computer. While it’s unplugged, press and hold the power button down for 30 seconds. This will discharge any electricity still being stored. After 30 seconds are up, plug the system back in and try turning it back on. You can also do this if your computer won’t wake up from sleep mode.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin August 11 edited August 12 4. Check the monitor input setting. Your monitor may just be on the wrong input if it’s not showing anything. Monitors will have a menu button or input button you can use to change this. These buttons are typically located on the bottom-right corner of the monitor' sometimes in the center or on the back. Check your owner’s manual if you’re not sure where they are.  You want to cycle through the inputs until it’s on the one that matches the cable you have plugged into the monitor.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin August 11 edited August 12 5. Test another monitor or cable.  If you make it through all the previous steps and your monitor is still not displaying anything, then it’s likely an issue related to hardware. If you have another cable to test with your monitor, try that first. If it’s still not displaying after that, then try a different monitor that you know works. If the other monitor displays something then we know it’s an issue with the first monitor. If the other monitor also does not display anything, then the computer is likely experience an issue that is causing it not to display anything.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin August 11 If you have any questions, feel free to comment below! And remember, if it turns out you're having issues with your computer, Micro Center offers computer repair services in every store. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article looking to borrow zen 1 cpu — Micro Center looking to borrow zen 1 cpu veli05 ✭ October 11 in Technical Support Questions Hey Fellow Techies, So I believe I either torched my Ryzen 5 1600 or msi bazooka b350M mobo on my desktop. Long story short, like a idiot, I touched a metal tipped tape measure to the mobo while it was on and promptly shut down and will not boot now. Feel free to laugh at me, I know I for sure did! Wondering if someone in the twin cities mn area has a extra zen 1 cpu they know works for me to borrow real quick to swap into the mobo to determine which part is actually broken? I am pretty sure we can meet in the tech support area at the st. louis park store which would have a spot for me to set the desktop and swap it in quick and do some testing, thus,  you would never need to lose sight of me or the processor. Would need to be willing to spend a hour or so while I troubleshoot though of course! DM me folks and lets see if we can't meet up. Thanks a ton ahead of time! Veli05 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article (Closed) September Showcase Contest - VOTE for your favorite! — Micro Center (Closed) September Showcase Contest - VOTE for your favorite! LandShark admin September 17 edited October 5 in Announcements, News & Launches The time has finally come! Our September build showcase contest submissions period has come to a close. Now the time for you to vote is here! First things first, we want to thank you for all the amazing submissions so far this month! It wasn't easy to choose a top 5 from all the amazing submissions that we received. Our staff has selected the top 5 from this month's build contest. Now's your chance to vote for your favorite! Check out the posts below. (Click the images to go directly to their submission) Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 Iceberg Vader - Come to the Dark Side where anything is possible! Cubism D4KSYDE Help us pick the Winners! (Vote Below) We chose the top 5 based on the We've selected these five builds because of their uniqueness, aesthetic, great cable management, and the passion behind the builders. I know it's a lot, but we used these criteria as a guide for helping us choose what we thought to be the best! Now it's up to you to do the hard work in selecting the winner! Thanks for your help! Voting will close on 9/25. Until that time, you'll be able to vote for your pick of the top 5. The the grand prize winner will win a $500 Micro Center gift card, the second-place winner will win a $250 Micro Center gift card and the third-place winner will win a $100 Micro Center gift card. For more info about this contest check our original post! September Showcase Contest (Closed) September Showcase Contest - VOTE for your favorite! Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 Iceberg Vader - Come to the Dark Side where anything is possible! Cubism D4KSYDE Sign in to vote! This is a public poll: others will see what you voted for. (Closed) September Showcase Contest - VOTE for your favorite! 118 votes Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 12% 15 votes Iceberg 39% 47 votes Vader - Come to the Dark Side where anything is possible! 4% 5 votes Cubism 12% 15 votes D4KSYDE 30% 36 votes Hide Results 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments Cbreezy1101 ✭ September 18 Iceberg Good luck to everyone!! 2 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Dzucku ✭ September 18 Cubism Why does this look like an Ikea Showroom contest?  2 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter LastFoodBender ✭ September 19 edited September 21 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 I thought this was supposed to be an actual PC build contest, rather than based on gaming set up?  Seems like most of top 5 are all picked including the whole set up: monitors, accessories, room etc. rather than just the pc build.  Don't get me wrong they look awesome! But just defeats the whole purpose of the contest.  I accidentally voted for game room 3.0 while scrolling (how do I change vote?),  but I really think ICEBERG should win because his is actually about the pc build, which is what the contest is supposed to be about.  Your game set up and monitors, etc. shouldn't even be in photos.   3 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 19 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 Open-air builds are pretty rare around these parts and this one is done very well,  Player 1 has to be my choice this time around.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter BlazerBuddy ✭ September 20 edited September 21 Iceberg There should be a contest where there is a strict budget, as all these people have multi thousand dollar set ups so giving them 500$ wouldn’t be as cool as giving somebody that only has 500$ Pc or 900$ pc. @TSTonyV 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin September 21 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 LastFoodBender said: I thought this was supposed to be an actual PC build contest, rather than based on gaming set up?  Seems like most of top 5 are all picked including the whole set up: monitors, accessories, room etc. rather than just the pc build.  Don't get me wrong they look awesome! But just defeats the whole purpose of the contest.  I accidentally voted for game room 3.0 while scrolling (how do I change vote?),  but I really think ICEBERG should win because his is actually about the pc build, which is what the contest is supposed to be about.  Your game set up and monitors, etc. shouldn't even be in photos.   Part of this contests description was how the PC fits into your full setup. These were the criteria: Photo quality Quality of description of the post Quality of cable management Uniqueness of build or theme How the PC fits into the full setup So at least for this contest the whole setup was in consideration, but I understand where you're coming from. Feedback like this is definitely taken into consideration for possible future contests.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter pecosROB ✭ September 22 D4KSYDE Can't believe my PC made it! Good luck to everyone! 2 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter pecosROB ✭ September 22 D4KSYDE Dzucku said: Why does this look like an Ikea Showroom contest?  tbh... my desk is totally from Ikea so guilty as charged lol 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter pecosROB ✭ September 22 D4KSYDE Controller Gang vote for D4RKSYDE (and Wyld Stallyns and DC Comics fans!) lmao 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Manipulator ✭ September 22 All of these builds are wwwaaaayyyy more than anything I could even dream up, not alone build!!! I wish  I could give a vote for each one! Congrats to each of the finalist and I wish the best of luck to all!!! 2 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter LandShark admin September 22 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 @Manipulator They are pretty amazing and each in different ways! I'm with you, I wish I could vote for each of them! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Cbreezy1101 ✭ September 22 Iceberg @TSTonyV What time does voting close on the 25th? And will you guys email the winner? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter LandShark admin September 22 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 @Cbreezy1101 Voting will close at 11:59 pm ET - 9/25. You're correct, we'll be emailing the winners! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Cbreezy1101 ✭ September 22 Iceberg @LandShark Thank you!! 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Dzucku ✭ September 24 Cubism pecosROB said: Dzucku said: Why does this look like an Ikea Showroom contest?  tbh... my desk is totally from Ikea so guilty as charged lol You're not alone. For studio/workstation setup - Ikea's furniture got it spot on. 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter LastFoodBender ✭ September 25 edited September 25 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 LastFoodBender said: I thought this was supposed to be an actual PC build contest, rather than based on gaming set up?  Seems like most of top 5 are all picked including the whole set up: monitors, accessories, room etc. rather than just the pc build.  Don't get me wrong they look awesome! But just defeats the whole purpose of the contest.  I accidentally voted for game room 3.0 while scrolling (how do I change vote?),  but I really think ICEBERG should win because his is actually about the pc build, which is what the contest is supposed to be about.  Your game set up and monitors, etc. shouldn't even be in photos.   Part of this contests description was how the PC fits into your full setup. These were the criteria: Photo quality Quality of description of the post Quality of cable management Uniqueness of build or theme How the PC fits into the full setup So at least for this contest the whole setup was in consideration, but I understand where you're coming from. Feedback like this is definitely taken into consideration for possible future contests ‐----------------------- I completely understand!  The only problem is that the entries being submitted ends up being about the whole set up.  The photos mainly submitted are the overall view, rather than the actual build.   From most of these post I can tell you how many monitors, etc they have, but I can't tell you much about their pc because there are either no close up parts photo, or none at all, or 95% photos of monitors, chairs, etc lol.  The voting versus random winners is much better though so thanks for considering what people are suggesting! 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter mmiller2 admin September 26 Game Room 3.0 - Player 1 The contest is now closed! Congratulations to our winners! First Place: https://www.microcenter.com/buildpost/3211/iceberg  Second Place: https://www.microcenter.com/buildpost/3348/d4ksyde Third Place: https://www.microcenter.com/buildpost/2995/cubism Look out for an email by Monday with next steps to claim your gift cards! 1 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter This discussion has been closed. Community Article Creating Windows 10 Installation Media on OSX — Micro Center Creating Windows 10 Installation Media on OSX TSMikeW admin July 15 edited July 28 in Windows This is a guide on various methods of creating installation media on OSX. The methods vary based on a couple of factors. Mainly the age of the system, and whether the motherboard can boot to certain file systems. Mainly ExFAT. FAT32 will work, but it’s limited to a maximum file size of 4GB, and at this point the install.wim file on the current version of Windows 10 is too large for this file system and this is the main hurdle. Microsoft has tools to work around this. Their media creation tool will format your flash drive FAT32 and split the wim file for you. DISM.exe also has ability to split and combine wim files. Unfortunately, neither of these tools are available to us on OSX without setting up a virtual machine. You can download the latest version of Windows 10 here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10  Option 1: If you’ve got a new ASUS board with an Intel chipset, you’re more than likely not going to have a problem with exFAT. I’ve also tested some Asrock boards with Intel chipsets that worked just fine as well. This makes the process quick and easy. You’ll need to format your flash drive as exFAT. You can do this in Disk Utility or via Terminal. I will detail the command via terminal below. You can open Terminal from the Utilities. Type “diskutil list” to list your drives. In the image below we see our drive is disk2.  Verify this by the volume name and capacity. Be careful, you do not want to wipe the wrong drive. Once you’re sure, type “diskutil erasedisk exfat “ESD-USB” MBR disk4” with disk4 being your flash drive. If this is not the case, correct the number on the end. Now we need to copy our installation files. Double click the ISO we downloaded earlier to mount it. It will mount as CCCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9. Our flash drive is labeled ESD-USB. Type “cp -rp /Volumes/CCCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9/* /Volumes/ESD-USB/”. We’re using the copy command (cp) with the switches recursive (to copy all sub directory files) and p (Preserves file attributes). Let the files copy, this will take up to 20 minutes. It’s important to note there is not status indicator here, you’ll get a flashing cursor. At this point, wait until it finishes.  Your prompt will return once it does. Finally eject the flash drive, connect it to your computer and power it on. If this is a new build with an empty drive, it should boot automatically. From here, you’re just doing a normal clean install of Windows 10. If not, you’ll need to use the boot menu key and select the flash drive from there. We’re booting UEFI in this guide. From here, you’re just doing a normal clean install of Windows 10. Please see our guide on this:  https://community.microcenter.com/discussion/2288/how-to-perform-a-clean-install-of-windows-10#latest Option 2: Part 1: OSX If you followed the guide above and your flash drive wasn’t detected, apparently your motherboard cannot boot from an ExFAT partition. We’ll need to use FAT32. In this guide we’re going to focus on doing this in a way that does not use third party tools to split the wim file. First we’ll need to create a folder  to store our installation files. I created a folder on the desktop called “Windows10”. From here, we’ll copy the files from the mounted ISO file. You can do this in finder, or via terminal. Type: “cp -r /Volumes/CCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9/* ~/Desktop/Windows10/”. Now, we need to navigate to this new folder where the files were copied via terminal. Open terminal and type: “cd Desktop\Windows10\Sources”. The prompt should confirm you’re in the sources folder. Next we’ll need to split the wim file. Remember, we need to get the file size under 4GB for FAT32. We’ll type, “sudo split -b 3000m install.wim”. It’s important to follow the syntax exactly, the m for “Megabyte” must be lower case. This will split our wim file into two files labeled “xaa” and “xab”. This is much like copying files, it will take some time to process. Wait for the prompt to return. Then delete install.wim from the Windows10\Sources folder. Now we need to format our flash drive to FAT32. You can do this from Disk Utility or via Terminal by typing ”diskutil erasedisk fat32 “ESD-USB” MBR disk4”. Next, we’ll copy our files to our newly formatted flash drive. We’ll type “cp -r ~/Desktop/Windows10/* /Volumes/ESD-USB/”. We’ll wait for it to copy, this will take some time. Once done, we’re finished with the OSX side. Eject the flash drive and connect it to your PC. Part 2: WinPE We’ll boot to the flash drive, either through our boot menu, or automatically if there are no other devices to boot to. Now we need to format our internal hard drive to be imaged from this media, before we copy over the files and image it. Make sure your data is backed up and any drives with important data are disconnected. We will need to wipe your main hard drive that you’ll be installing Windows to in advance. To open command prompt press”Shift + F10” from the “Install Now” page. Well type the following commands: diskpart list disk (find your hard drive, it should be obvious by the capacity) select disk # (# being the number of the drive, most likely 0) convert GPT create partition efi size=100 format quick fs=fat32 label="System" assign letter="S" create partition msr size=16 create partition primary  shrink minimum=450 format quick fs=ntfs label="Windows 10" assign letter="W" create partition primary format quick fs=ntfs label="WinRE" set id="de94bba4-06d1-4d40-a16a-bfd50179d6ac" gpt attributes=0x8000000000000001 Once you’re done. Type: “list part” and verify the partition scheme matches the image below. Also type “list vol” so we can verify our assigned drive letters. Once confirmed, type "exit" to exit diskpart. Next we’re going to copy out files on to our newly formatted and labeled W volume. We’ll type “xcopy  /h /c /y C:\Sources\xa* W:\”. In this case our flash drive was labeled as C. This will be corrected automatically when we reboot. Your main drive will be C as normal, not W. This command will copy both the xaa and xab files we created when we split the install.wim file. Asterisk is a wildcard, that searches for and copies any file in the directory that starts with xa. Once again, wait a few minutes for the files to copy. Now we’re going to merge the two halves of the wim file we split earlier. We’ll need to navigate to the W root folder. Type “W:”, verify the prompt indicates your in this directory. Now type “type xaa xab > Install.wim”. Wait a few moments while the two large files halves are merged together. Now we’ll need to image our drive from the wim file. Type”dism /Apply-Image /ImageFile:W:\install.wim /index:1 /ApplyDir:W:\”. This will take a few moments to complete. Last step is to make our new windows installation bootable. We used a GPT partition and we’re booting via UEFI so we’ll type “W:\Windows\System32\bcdboot W:\Windows”. Finally, remove the flash drive and reboot. If you want to do this via command prompt type “W:\Windows\System32\shutdown -r -t 0”, or just restart the system with the power button. Once it reboots, it should load of windows and right into the out of box experience for you to create your user account. FAQ Is there an easier way to create the partition scheme, rather than typing in all those commands? You can run it via a script. Copy the following and safe it as a .txt file to your installation flash drive:  select disk 0 convert GPT create partition efi size=100 format quick fs=fat32 label="System" assign letter="S" create partition msr size=16 create partition primary  shrink minimum=450 format quick fs=ntfs label="Windows 10" assign letter="W" create partition primary format quick fs=ntfs label="WinRE" set id="de94bba4-06d1-4d40-a16a-bfd50179d6ac" gpt attributes=0x8000000000000001 From there you'll execute it by typing "diskpart /s ". Make sure to verify the number of your drive with "list disk" and modify it accordingly. So if we called the file formatdisk.txt and we established our flash drive was labeled as D, we would type: diskpart /s D:\formatdisk.txt I'm not sure if a file transferred or copy. How can I can check from command line or terminal? For command line the command is "dir". For terminal the command is "ls". You'll need to navigate to the folder you want to view. The command is the same on both, "cd " for change directory. After typing "W:\Windows\System32\bcdboot W:\Windows" I receive the error "Failure when initializing library system volume". It's not able to locate your system volume. We'll need to mount it and specify the path. In my example my system volume was 3. Check 'list vol' and correct as necessary. Type the following: Diskpart select disk 0 select vol 3 assign letter=S exit W:\Windows\System32\bcdboot W:\Windows /s S: /f ALL Related Articles:  How to perform a clean install of Windows 10 How to Create a Windows 10 Installation Flash Drive Keywords: usb stick, bootable usb drive, diskutil erasedisk ms dos, boot camp assistance, create bootable usb, install disk, windows 10 iso file, downloads folder, windows 10 bootable usb 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TanNguyen93 ✭ August 14 So i finished everything on the terminal on my mac like you said in part one, but when i went to boot up the windows install on my pc it gave me an error saying "Windows could not collect information for [OSImage] since the specific image file [install.wim] does not exist. What would i nee to do now? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMikeW admin August 16 Greetings @TanNguyen93 Doesn't sound like you copied and merged the two halves of the wim file. Refer to the portion referring to "xcopy  /h /c /y C:\Sources\xa* W:\" and the "type xaa xab > Install.wim". This copies the two halves the wim file to the W: drive, where because it's NTFS, we can exceed the four gigabyte file size, and merge it back into the install.wim, we need to use to deploy our OS. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Repair Order# RP2006180505@@1 — Micro Center Repair Order# [email protected]@1 Koko ✭ June 26 in Customer Service Questions Hi, I would like to know my laptop repair is done this morning and ready to pick up. Please advise. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments Ian admin June 26 Koko said: Hi, I would like to know my laptop repair is done this morning and ready to pick up. Please advise. Greetings. It looks like they called you about a part order yesterday and are awaiting its arrival. They will contact you with any updates.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Repair Order RP2009020225@@1 — Micro Center Repair Order [email protected]@1 AaronScott1906 ✭ September 9 in Customer Service Questions Hi.  I wanted to know if my IPad was ready for pick up? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin September 9 Hi there! It looks like based on the service notes you made it into the store to get the iPad, let us know if there's anything else you need! 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article DVD is not Showing Up in Windows 10 — Micro Center DVD is not Showing Up in Windows 10 TSAustinM admin April 29 edited August 11 in Windows An article on how to ensure DVDs you put into your system can be read and played in a Windows 10 system 1. Run Troubleshooting through the Control Panel. Open the Control Panel. You can do this by clicking on the Type here to search, entering Control Panel, and selecting the top result.   Ensure the control panel is being viewed by Small (or large) icons and then open Troubleshooting.   Select the Configure a device option under Hardware and Sound. Follow the prompts that show on the Troubleshooter that appears.   Check BIOS to ensure the DVD drive is detected. Depending on what your machine, when you boot up your machine you will need to press a button to go into your BIOS. From there you can check your system to make sure the CD/DVD drive shows up. If it does not show up here, shut down the system and unplug it from your outlet. Then, open the side panel and check to make sure the cables are seated properly for both the power and the data. If this is an external drive, make sure the USB connection is properly seated.  2. Update chipset driver for motherboard. You can find the driver for the computer on the support page for the motherboard. If this is a pre-built system from a manufacturer, you will find it on the manufacturer’s support page. 3. Update or reinstall the driver for the CD/DVD Driver. Open device manager. You can do so by holding the Windows key and pressing X to bring up a menu at the start key. Then click on Device Manager.   Open DVD/CD-ROM drives to see the driver for your CD/DVD drive.   Right-click on the driver to and select Update driver.   On the following prompt, select Search automatically for updated driver software and let it search for results. If the driver updates, check if it works afterward.   If the issue is not resolved at this point, right-click on the device and choose to Uninstall device.   After uninstalling the driver, reboot the computer. So long as the drive is physically connected to the system as it needs to, you should see the driver back on the device manager after rebooting. 4. Reinstall drivers under the IDE/ADAPI category on the device manager. Open device manager. You can do so by holding the Windows key and pressing X to bring up a menu at the start key. Then click on Device Manager.   Open the IDE/ATAPI controllers   Right-click on the ATA Controller 0 and select Uninstall device to uninstall.   Right-click on the ATA Controller 1 and select Uninstall device to uninstall. Right-click on the Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller and select Uninstall device to uninstall. Repeat this for any additional ATA Controller drivers in this category. After uninstalling the drivers, reboot the computer. The drivers should be reinstalled upon booting.   5. Fix corrupt registry entry.   Note: It is important to be careful with registries as altering the wrong registry can cause issues with your computer. Proceed with this step with due caution. Changes to registry occur immediately, there is no prompt to save or discard changes.   Click on the Type here to search on the taskbar and search RegEdit. Select the Regedit result to open the Registry Editor.   On the navigation bar near the top, go to: Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e965-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} You can also navigate the subfolders on the left pane to get to the same folder. On the right pane, locate the upper filter and lower filter. Delete these two entries by selecting each one and then on the upper left corner, open the Edit and then select Delete.   After the upper and lower filters are deleted, close the Registry Editor and reboot the computer. 6. Create a registry subkey. Note: It is important to be careful with registries as altering the wrong registry can cause issues with your computer. Proceed with this step with due caution. Click on the Type here to search on the taskbar and search RegEdit. Select the Regedit result to open the Registry Editor.   On the navigation bar near the top, go to: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\atapi You can also navigate the subfolders on the left pane to get to the same folder.   Right-click on the atapi folder on the left pane. On the menu that comes up, go the New and select the Key. Type Controller0 in the prompt and then press Enter.   Right-click on Controller0 and within New, select DWORD(32-bit) Value.   Type EnumDevice1 when prompted for the name of the new value. Right-click on EnumDevice1 and then click on Modify…   In the Value data box, set it to 1 and then click on OK.   Exit the Registry Editor and reboot the computer to apply changes. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Family of 5 — Micro Center Family of 5 Alexander ✭ May 14 edited May 14 in Customer Service Questions I'm in a family of 5, can we all go inside the store together or only 2 can go? I have 2 little siblings and they cant be alone. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments Ian admin May 15 Greetings. We are not aware of a limit in place like this. When you visit your local store please check in with the greeter out front for information on entering the store. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Alexander ✭ May 15 Okay tysm 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Web Page Product Availability | Micro Center Availability is a time estimate for how long it will take us to receive your order, acquire the items in your order, and prepare the items for shipment. Delivery Date Estimate, APO/FPO Deliveries. Community Article Docking Station for USBC 3.1 gen 1 — Micro Center Docking Station for USBC 3.1 gen 1 AC1 ✭ October 8 in Sales Are there any docking stations with 2 HDMI inputs for this type of connection?  finding a lot with 1 hdmi but if i that will the HDMI input on the laptop work as well? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSPhillipT admin October 8 Hello @AC1 You can use the HDMI port on your laptop as well as the one on a docking station.  I do think it is strange that a lot of the docking stations only have the ports for one HDMI, but they do exist... just on higher end and more expensive docking stations.   0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article How to use System Restore in Windows 10 — Micro Center How to use System Restore in Windows 10 Ian admin May 8 edited August 28 in Windows  System Restore is a Windows tool that lets you revert recent changes. If you are unable to boot into Windows, or dealing with frequent crashes, System Restore can undo recent changes like: driver updates, Windows updates, software installs, system file changes, and configuration changes to restore your computer. System Restore can return a system to working condition without having to reinstall the operating system or deleting your files.     Enabling System Protection In most cases Windows already has System Protection turned on for an out of the box PC. However, in case settings have been changed, you can enable System Protection to allow Windows to automatically create Restore Points.     1. In the Windows Search bar, Search for "Control Panel" and press Enter     2. This will open the Control Panel window, Click on System and Security and select System     3. Click System Protection          4. This will open the system properties window with the system protection tab selected 5. Under Protection Settings, Select Local Disk C: to highlight it 6. Select Configure 7. Click the Radio Button to Turn on system protection   Creating a Restore Point In case you need to make a major change in the settings or software, you can manually create a Restore Point to safely go back and revert the changes you made.   1. In the Windows 10 search bar, Search for “system restore” and hit Enter     2. This will open the system properties window with the system protection tab selected. 3. Under Protection Settings, Click Create button 4. Name the restore point and Click Create 5. The progress bar will appear to display that the system restore is being created. 6. A message will appear stating “The restore point was created successfully”   Using System Restore Method 1 Use this Method when you are able to load Windows but experiencing crashing. Press the Windows key + R on the keyboard to open a Run window. Enter rstrui.exe into the Run window and then click OK to open 2. A System Restore window will appear, click Next to proceed   3. The next screen will list the available restore points 4. Select the date corresponding to the system restore point before the issue occurred to highlight it and Click Next   5. A confirm restore point screen will appear, selecting Finish will automatically start the system restore process which will take some time to complete and is an automatic process. Once finished, the computer will return to the sign-in screen or desktop if there is no computer password. Method 2 Use this method when Windows cannot load. The Windows 10 advanced startup screen allows you to gain access to the System Restore tool outside of Windows to repair system setting and errors without losing data. 1. Power on the computer 2. As soon as the Windows logo appears on the screen, press the power button to interrupt the boot sequence    3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 two more times until you see the recovery screen Alternatively, if you cannot access the recovery environment with these steps, you can start Windows using installation media and while on the Windows Setup select Repair your computer button to follow the steps below to access system restore. 4. Click the Advanced options button 5. Click on Troubleshoot 6. Click Advanced Options 7. Click System Restore 8. Follow steps 2-5 in Method 1 to complete the restore process. Once complete, the changes causing the problem will be discarded and Windows should start normally. Enabling System Protection In most cases Windows already has System Protection turned on for an out of the box PC. However, in case settings have been changed, you can enable System Protection to allow Windows to automatically create Restore Points.     1. In the Windows Search bar, Search for "Control Panel" and press Enter     2. This will open the Control Panel window, Click on System and Security and select System     3. Click System Protection              4. This will open the system properties window with the system protection tab selected     5. Under Protection Settings, Select Local Disk C: to highlight it     6. Select Configure     7. Click the Radio Button to Turn on system protection Creating a Restore Point In case you need to make a major change in the settings or software, you can manually create a Restore Point to safely go back and revert the changes you made.     1. In the Windows 10 search bar, Search for “system restore” and hit Enter     2. This will open the system properties window with the system protection tab selected.     3. Under Protection Settings, Click Create button     4. Name the restore point and Click Create     5. The progress bar will appear to display that the system restore is being created.     6. A message will appear stating “The restore point was created successfully” Using System Restore Method 1 Use this Method when you are able to load Windows but experiencing crashing. Press the Windows key + R on the keyboard to open a Run window. Enter rstrui.exe into the Run window and then click OK to open     2. A System Restore window will appear, click Next to proceed     3. The next screen will list the available restore points     4. Select the date corresponding to the system restore point before the issue occurred to highlight it and Click Next     5. A confirm restore point screen will appear, selecting Finish will automatically start the system restore process which will take some time to complete and is an automatic process. Once finished, the computer will return to the sign-in screen or desktop if there is no computer password. Method 2 Use this method when Windows cannot load. The Windows 10 advanced startup screen allows you to gain access to the System Restore tool outside of Windows to repair system setting and errors without losing data.     1. Power on the computer     2. As soon as the Windows logo appears on the screen, press the power button to interrupt the boot sequence        3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 two more times until you see the recovery screen Alternatively, if you cannot access the recovery environment with these steps, you can start Windows using installation media and while on the Windows Setup select Repair your computer button to follow the steps below to access system restore.     4. Click the Advanced options button     5. Click on Troubleshoot     6. Click Advanced Options     7. Click System Restore     8. Follow steps 2-5 in Method 1 to complete the restore process. Once complete, the changes causing the problem will be discarded and Windows should start normally. Last Edit: 8/28 - PhillipT 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article How to Choose Your Parts, Part 1: The Processor — Micro Center How to Choose Your Parts, Part 1: The Processor TSTonyV admin April 18 edited August 7 in CPU's, Memory and Motherboards Edited 5/22/2020 to add information for tenth generation Intel CPUs and Ryzen 3 3100/3300X, removed some recommendations for parts that are being discontinued or superseded by better options.  Edited 7/25/2020 to add a note about Ryzen Third-Gen XT processors, removed some recommendations How to Choose Your Parts: The Processor Greetings! Welcome to the Micro Center Community. For those of you reading this post, you’re probably here for one primary reason: you want to build a PC, but you’re not sure where to start. Whether it’s your first time building or you’re an experienced builder and just need some extra clarification, this post is for you. With all the options available on the market, it can be overwhelming when you don’t keep up with this stuff daily. This will be the first in a series of posts to help you become more informed about the current market of parts available.   First things first, we need to answer some basic questions: What is your budget? The most basic and simple question that will determine everything about your build. For most of you out there, every single dollar counts and squeezing as much value out of your build as you can will be the most important thing. If you only have a budget of $800, spending half that on your CPU alone leaves no room for other parts that will match it.  What are you using this computer for? Are you a competitive gamer that needs to have a perfectly stable 144Hz refresh rate in all your favorite FPS titles? Maybe you’re a video editor and looking to speed up your production workflow. How you’re using the system will be the other largest factor in determining what parts you should look at. With those questions in mind, we’ll go over one of the most important parts for you to choose: your Processor. And of course, we have to start with The Big Question: Intel or AMD? Since the dawn of time, this debate has raged harder than any other. If you’d asked that question 5 or 10 years ago, there was only one answer: Intel was the king for years. However, AMD has made huge strides with their Ryzen series of processors recently and has been going toe-to-toe with Intel, and in some cases, they’re beating them. This is where question #2 is most important: What are you using this computer for? Intel CPUs still generally hold the edge in raw gaming performance and pushing higher FPS. Games are generally more reliant on single threaded performance because they’re not good at taking advantage of high numbers of cores and threads, and Intel still has an advantage in their single-threaded performance with their ability to push higher clock speeds compared to their AMD counterparts. There are some professional applications such as Adobe Photoshop which do rely more on single-threaded performance as well, where Intel will still be in front. But, as times goes on, games are getting better and better at utilizing more cores and threads. Something to consider for the longevity of your system. Where AMD really takes the cake is once you get into multi-threaded applications such as rendering and live streaming. For anything like that AMD is pretty much a no brainer. They pack in more cores and more threads while maintaining good single-threaded performance so you can still game well. Not only are they packing in more cores and more threads, they’re generally doing it for less than Intel is. AMD is the king of performance-per-dollar right now. Edit 5/22/2020: With the tenth-generation Intel CPUs now available, Intel has brought Hyper-Threading back to the i3, i5 and i7 parts, which means they're more closely matching AMD in core/thread count. You still see a pretty hefty price premium over AMD for it, so keep that in mind. AMD will probably still have the better performance per-dollar, unless we see significant price changes. For now, it appears Intel's pricing on the 9th generation chips is still the same, and the 10th generation parts have seen a price increase relatively.  Lastly, for gaming, resolution is the great equalizer. As resolution goes up games become more GPU bound, and the differences between comparable CPUs across both brands and tiers are minimized. Any differences you'd see at 1080p will shrink at 1440p. At 4k, mid-range CPUs like the 3600 and top-tier CPUs like the 9900k will perform almost identically, because so much of the workload is dependent on your GPU instead of the CPU.  And now, the moment you’ve all been waiting for, what CPUs should you be looking at? Honorable mention: They AMD Ryzen 5 2400G and Ryzen 5 3400G occupy a unique space where they include a pretty solid integrated graphics chip. In terms of CPU performance they’re not as good as their other Ryzen 5 counterparts and cost a little more, but if you absolutely cannot afford even a low-budget video card, the integrated Vega 11 graphics on these is good enough for some light gaming on its own. It’s comparable to something like a Geforce GTX 750 or GT 1030 video card. You may not get good framerates at high settings, but games with lighter graphics requirements would be playable. CPUs on a budget: Ryzen 3 3300X: It's really impressive how far we've come with CPUs. This 4 core/8 thread Ryzen 3 is about the same performance as the old Intel i7-7700k per-clock from a few years ago. It even has a decent amount of overclocking headroom, though it's not quite as much as the 7700k had. AMD's platform also has strong support for memory speeds and overclocking, as well as other features, so this is pretty much our new Budget King for gaming.  Ryzen 3 3100: The Ryzen 3 3100 is also a 4 core/8 thread part, however it has some key internal differences compared to the 3300x that make it slower. That by no means makes it a bad CPU, but considering that price-wise the 3100 and 3300x should be somewhat close to each other, the 3300X will generally get my recommendation, but if your budget is that tight, the 3100 will still be a great option. Intel i3-10100: Also now a 4 core/8 thread part, it's similar to the old locked i3-7700. In terms of performance, it's similar to the Ryzen 3 3100 and behind the 3300X at stock settings. Unlike AMD's Ryzen 3 chips, the 10100 unfortunately does not support overclocking so it doesn't have a way to make up the performance gap. The one benefit it does have is integrated graphics, so if that's something you really want/need then this will be good option, but otherwise the 3300X would be better overall.  AMD Ryzen 3 3200G: You step down in price and cores to 4c/4t, but gain the benefit of integrated graphics over the 2600X. This is about the lowest I would personally go if you have gaming in mind. Also note this occupies a similar space to the 2400G and 3400g, if you absolutely cannot afford a video card, the integrated graphics are just good enough to be playable on lighter games. Intel i3-9100f: Basically the same deal as the 3200g at 4 cores/4 threads. This is the lowest I’d go if you have any gaming in mind, but with the caveat that this one does not have integrated graphics. Mid-range: Edit 7/25/2020: AMD Recently released their Ryzen XT series for the mid and high-end processors with the Ryzen 5 3600XT, Ryzen 7 3800XT, and Ryzen 9 3900XT. These are slightly better binned chips with ever so slightly higher boost clock speeds, however the differences are small. Unless you're into enthusiast overclocking on the Ryzen platform, there is no reason to purchase these with the current pricing, there is not anywhere near enough performance gain to justify the increased cost. AMD Ryzen 5 3600: At 6 cores/12 threads on this CPU, this is a fantastic all-around option no matter what you're doing. AMD made big increases in their single-threaded performance from the 2000 to 3000 series which means big gains in the gaming department. It's hard to beat the price-to-performance on this chip and it's one of our top recommendations for a balanced system with a budget in mind.  Intel i5-10600k: At 6 cores/12 threads, this is a really interesting option in the mid-range. In gaming it is better than the Ryzen 5 3600 at stock settings, and has a good bit of overclocking headroom to widen the gap even further. In productivity and multi-threaded workloads, it typically matches the 3600 at stock settings, but can pull ahead if you overclock it. And let's be honest, the reason to get a K-series Intel CPU is for the ability to overclock. It comes with a hefty price premium over the 3600/X and requires purchasing a separate cooler, so in terms of performance-per-dollar, the 3600 will still win. But considering this CPU can at times come very close to or even match the more expensive i7 and i9 parts in gaming scenarios, the 10600k is pretty much the new all around best gaming CPU so for pure-gaming machines.  Intel i5-10400: Another 6 core/12 thread part now, the 10400 is a bit of a weird case. If you pair it with DDR4-3200 RAM, it will perform about the same as a Ryzen 5 3600. If you don't pair it with 3200MHz memory, it will be slower. That means you have to use it with a more expensive Z490 motherboard if you want to match the 3600's performance. The cheaper chipsets won't be able to utilize DDR4-3200, which means the 10400 will generally be outperformed by the 3600 when paired with those. Considering that difference, unless you have a very specific need for integrated graphics, this is not a strong recommendation.  Intel i5-9600K: Unlike the 3600, this Intel part does not have hyperthreading so only has 6 cores/6 threads. However, it does have higher clock speeds so it will usually win the gaming battle, of course with the caveat that once you're in any scenario that requires more threads, the 3600 will overtake it. The 9600k also does not come with a cooler. Decent aftermarket coolers are going to be at least $20 (but you’ll probably want to spend more like $30-40 ish). Considering that added cost + the higher price vs the 3600, I'd say the 3600 is the better option overall as the money you save could be put towards something like GPU upgrade.  High-end: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X: With 8 cores/16 threads this CPU is an absolute workhorse. It also includes the very-solid Wraith Prism CPU cooler that will even let you do some light overclocking on the chip out of box. It will still be behind the 9700k in gaming, but it’s not that far behind. In gaming only scenarios the i5-10600k will be better for the same price, but if you’re doing anything that's more multi-threaded, there’s no contest. Like the 3600 and 3600X, the Ryzen 7 3800X is essentially the same as the 3700X, but with a slightly higher clock speed. The performance difference is incredibly small.  Intel i7-10700k: Intel brought back hyperthreading, so this is now an 8 core/16 thread part. In terms of gaming performance it's basically the same as the i9-9900k because it's essentially the same processor. In multi-threaded workloads it's markedly better than the 9700k. However, it's still about the same as the 3700X in those situations at stock settings, and the Ryzen 9 3900X will always outperform it in those applications for the same price. With current pricing, the 10700k is in this weird no man's land where there's equally good gaming options (9700K, 10600k) for cheaper and a more compelling productivity option (3900X) for the same price. Like the 10600k it doesn't come with a cooler either. Top-Tier AMD Ryzen 9 3900X: This monster of a CPU packs in 12 cores and 24 threads under the hood. Pretty much the same deal as the 3700X: for almost anything non-gaming, there’s no contest. Streaming? Smooth as silk. Rendering? You never finished a scene that fast. For the design and workstation oriented, the only thing that can really beat this CPU are other AMD CPUs (more on that below). While it does include the Wraith Prism cooler again, this is where you’ll probably want to look at something a little beefier to help keeps things nice and cool. Intel i9-10900k: The 10900k sees similar performance in gaming to its previous generation counterpart, the 9900k, with the occasional slight uplift. However, this is now a 10 core/20 thread part, so it sees a performance boost in most productivity applications vs the 8c/16t of the 9900k. It's still 2 cores behind the 3900X so it often still loses to it handily in those workloads. This  The Pinnacle of Performance Once you get past the 3900X and 10900K, you’re getting into territory where gaming will start to take a backseat. You may even start to see gaming downgrades vs the lower priced CPUs as multi-threaded performance becomes an even bigger focus over single-threaded. Not that you can’t game on many of these, but it would be a secondary benefit. Processors up here are generally known as "High End Desktop," or HEDT and are going to be targeted more towards professionals or enthusiasts who need to increase their productivity and speed up their workflow.  If the program or work you’re doing relies particularly on single threaded performance, such as Adobe Photoshop or 2D work in AutoCAD, Intel can still potentially take some wins here. Processors to look at: The 10900k is still a solid entry option for this category The Intel X-series comes into play at this point once you’re past those      i9-10900X 10-cores/20 threads (invalidated by the 10900k mostly, unless you need more PCIe lanes)      i9-10920X 12 cores/24 threads      i9-10940X 14 cores/28 threads And on up the line. I would only consider those if there is a specific scenario that Intel chips would particularly excel at, because otherwise… AMD is not far behind single-threaded anymore with the 3rd geneneration Ryzen CPUs, and in any multi-thread reliant workloads, AMD just dominates the field. You can’t find these crazy high core/thread counts from Intel unless you get into the high-end of their Xeon family of processors. The only question is “how many cores can I get for the dollar I spend.” Processors to look at: The 3900X is not technically an HEDT processor, but is still a good entry point for this category on a budget.  AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 16 cores/32 threads. This one is also not technically an HEDT processor because it's the same AM4 form factor as AMDs lower priced consumer chips, but with that many cores/threads and a price to match, it might as well be.  Second generation Threadripper CPUs are huge bargains with the crazy discounts they received when third generation chips launched      Threadripper 2950X 16 cores/32 threads      Threadripper 2990WX 32 cores/64 threads Third generation Threadrippers saw a big boost in single-threaded performance while packing in more cores and threads than their second generation counterparts.       Threadripper 3960X 24 cores/48 threads.      Threadripper 3970X 32 cores/64 threads.      Threadripper 3990X with a staggering 64 cores/128 threads. We actually did an in-depth review of this CPU, if you're interested in reading it.  If you made it this far, thank you for reading! If you have follow-up questions feel free to comment below, and make sure you read part 2! 2 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments JasonA ✭ May 20 There doesn't seem to be a dedicated article in this series that gives advice regarding selection of cooling fans or liquid coolers. In particular I'm looking for something to go with an i7-9700K setup designed to run Adobe Lightroom Classic and Photoshop. Any suggestions ? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMichaelB admin May 20 JasonA said: There doesn't seem to be a dedicated article in this series that gives advice regarding selection of cooling fans or liquid coolers. In particular I'm looking for something to go with an i7-9700K setup designed to run Adobe Lightroom Classic and Photoshop. Any suggestions ? Great question. In regards to fans, it will depend on the intended use of the fans. If they are simply going on a chassis for additional airflow, then look for fans specifically rated for high airflow or a high CFM volume. I am a fan of Noctua's black industrial fans such as the Noctua NF-F12, but I do not believe we carry those particular fans anymore. A strong contender for second place would be Corsair's AF120/AF140's as they offer great airflow and are not all that loud.  If you are looking for radiator fans, you'll need static pressure fans. While you can use high airflow fans and run them at an extremely high RPM to force air through the fin stacks, it's going to be obnoxiously loud as they are not purpose built to force air through something with a lot of resistance. My favorite radiator fans are Corsair's MagLev series. They offer a strong static pressure rating AND high airflow, so you get the best of both worlds here. They also use a magnetic bearing and run extremely quiet. I have 18 of these in a push/pull configuration on a 1260mm radiator and cannot hear them running despite my radiator being external and on top of my desk. As for liquid cooler recommendations, this will depend on your chassis size. I personally recommend 240/280mm radiators depending on chassis support. 120mm radiators are no better than high end air coolers, and 360mm radiators suffer from diminishing returns due to the AIO's pump being the bottleneck in most situations. A larger radiator will help you stave off higher temperatures for a little longer, but once the liquid in the loop reaches thermal equilibrium, it won't matter at that point. I personally prefer AIO's that use Asetek pumps. This would be Corsair's H series AIO's, NZXT's Kraken series, EVGA's CLC series, and Thermaltake's Floe series. If you are looking for recommendations on a custom loop watercooling setup, then that will require a full list of your components so we can determine what needs cooled, how much space you have for radiators, pump/reservoir and tubing. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter JasonA ✭ May 20 edited May 20 Thanks @TSMichaelB ! What I'm really looking at are the fan + radiator combinations for the CPU. I really don't want to go down the liquid cooling path at this stage if I can get by without it. So I've been looking at the Noctua range, NH-U14S, NH-D15 or NH-D15S, which are in the $90-$115 range, but then I also see much cheaper options like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 series for $35 - $45. The last time I had a custom-built PC, it was a Pentium 4 3.0GHz with HyperThreading, and that worked perfectly well with a stock Intel fan and heatsink. Obviously a lot has changed since then in the last 15 years !!! So now I'm trying to play "catch up" on the technology !!! My current build parts list is as follows: https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/custom-pc-builder.aspx?load=80c7c09e-42a2-4a9b-add1-140cbb8d8d5c I am also thinking of using the Corsair SPEC-02 case. I like the look and the magnetic mesh on the cooling vents. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSMichaelB admin May 20 JasonA said: Thanks @TSMichaelB ! What I'm really looking at are the fan + radiator combinations for the CPU. I really don't want to go down the liquid cooling path at this stage if I can get by without it. So I've been looking at the Noctua range, NH-U14S, NH-D15 or NH-D15S, which are in the $90-$115 range, but then I also see much cheaper options like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 series for $35 - $45. The last time I had a custom-built PC, it was a Pentium 4 3.0GHz with HyperThreading, and that worked perfectly well with a stock Intel fan and heatsink. Obviously a lot has changed since then in the last 15 years !!! So now I'm trying to play "catch up" on the technology !!! My current build parts list is as follows: https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/custom-pc-builder.aspx?load=80c7c09e-42a2-4a9b-add1-140cbb8d8d5c I am also thinking of using the Corsair SPEC-02 case. I like the look and the magnetic mesh on the cooling vents. Honestly for what you're describing, I think the Hyper 212 series would work fine. If you are overclocking, then I would recommend the Noctua D15's as they can compete with some of the higher end AIO liquid coolers and should be plenty for any overclocking you intend to do, but if you plan to run it at stock clock/turbo boost speeds and use it for content creation, the Hyper 212 Black Edition would be my recommendation. The stock fan that comes on it works perfectly fine, but if you wanted to replace it with anything, a Noctua NF-F12 would be great, or a Corsair ML120 would be my second recommendation. I'd start with the stock fan first and if you find its noise to be louder than your preferences.  If you do go with the larger NH D15, be very careful with your RAM heatspreaders. The fans will likely cover the first DIMM slot on your motherboard, and ram with tall heatspreaders will interfere with the fans.You can try to lift the fans up some more, but depending on your chassis, you may be limited on Z height depending on your side panel. As for the actual chassis, the Spec 02 is pretty solid. If you prefer a more minimalist design, I strongly recommend taking a look at this: https://www.microcenter.com/product/606985/cooler-master-nr600-masterbox-tempered-glass-atx-mid-tower-computer-case---black. The entire front panel is mesh and is designed for high airflow. I don't believe it has a magnetic dust filter, but the front panel is removable simply by pulling on it from the front and is extremely easy to clean. If you ever decided to go with liquid cooling in the future, it has support for several different radiator configurations. As for the rest of your build, your part selection looks very solid. 2 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Rinati75 ✭ August 25 How do I get to Part 2? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSPhillipT admin August 25 Hello @Rinati75 You can find the whole series of posts here.   0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article View Badge: 5 Answers — Micro Center 5 Answers Your willingness to share knowledge has definitely been noticed. 5 people have earned this badge. Most recent recipients TSPhillipT September 14 Ian July 1 TSMikeW May 6 TSTonyV April 25 TSMichaelB April 17 Community Article Micro Center AMD Threadripper 3990X Build Guide — Micro Center Micro Center AMD Threadripper 3990X Build Guide ryau admin February 7 edited February 7 in PC Build Guides Micro Center AMD Threadripper 3990X Build Guide This guide will demonstrate the assembly process of the AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3990X display system. Please note: The steps below may depend on component availability and preference/experience of the person performing the assembly. The instructions below are to build a system using the following computer parts: AMD Threadripper 3990X CPU ASUS TRX40 ROG Zenith II Extreme Alpha AMD sTRX4 EATX Motherboard 128 GB G.Skill Trident Z Neo Series RGB (4 x 32GB) DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16 Quad Channel Memory Kit EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 Ultra Gaming Triple-Fan 11GB GDDR6 PCIe 3.0 Video Card 2 x Samsung 970 EVO+ 1TB SSD V-NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL ROG eATX Mid-Tower Computer Case EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W Watt 80 Plus Titanium ATX Fully Modular Power Supply Load the list of components in our online PC Builder Additional water cooling components are show below. While our build used silver fittings, we have many other colors (black, white, black sparkle, and matte black) in stock so you can tailor the build to your own taste. Bitspower Touchaqua Tarasque 360mm Radiator (Top) Bitspower Leviathan XF360 Triple 360mm Radiator (Bottom) Lian Li O11D Distribution Plate G1 Bitspower Touchaqua Notos RGB 120mm Case Fan (5 pack) Bitspower Touchaqua Notos RGB 120mm Case Fan (Single) EKWB EK-Velocity sTR4 D-RGB CPU Block 3 x Bitspower G 1/4" Male to Male Fitting - Silver 4 x Bitspower G 1/4" 15mm Male to Female Extender - Silver 3 x Bitspower G 1/4" Thread 90° Adapter - Silver 24 x Bitspower G 1/4" Enhanced Straight Compression Fitting - Silver 4 x Bitspower G 1/4" 25mm Male to Female Extender - Silver 8 x Bitspower 90-Degree With Dual Inner G1/4" Extender - Silver Shining Bitspower X-Cross Fitting - Silver Bitspower G 1/4" Mini-Valve Straight - Silver Thermaltake V-Tubler PETG 1/2" (13 mm) x 5/8" (16 mm) Rigid Tubing 1000 mm - Clear If you want to use different fittings, tubing and add components such as a GPU water block, the following instructions may not reflect your modifications. All assembly and modification is done at your own risk. Contents Preparations & Tools (Step 1) Motherboard component installation (Step 2) Top & Side Panel Removal (Step 3) Internal HDD Bracket/Accessory Package (Step 4) Motherboard Installation (Step 5) Chassis Cable Shroud Removal (Step 6) Preliminary PSU Cable Routing (Step 7) Rear SSD Panel Removal (Step 8) Distro-Plate Installation (Step 9) RGB & Fan Controllers (Step 10) PSU Installation (Step 11) Lower Radiator & Fan Installation (Step 12) Upper Radiator & Fan Installation (Step 13) GPU Installation (Step 14) PSU Cable Management (Step 15) Distro-Plate Fitting Installation (Step 16) Tube Cutting & Loop Assembly (Step 16A) Optional Drain Valve (Step 17) Leak Test (Step 18) Filling the Loop (Step 19) Reassemble Panels & Install OS 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments ryau admin February 7 Preparation and Recommended Tools: Large Anti-static work environment EK Leak Tester Screwdriver Set Water Coolant Fill Bottle Tape Measure/Ruler ASUS Motherboard Manual (pdf) Lian Li Chassis PDF Manual can be found at the bottom of their product page.  Saw/dremel for cutting PETG tubing PrimoChill PETG / Acrylic Reamer/Deburring Tool Eclipse Enterprise ESD Strap W/Velcro Adjustable Strap Safety glasses Grip Microfiber Cleaning Cloths 12" x 12" - 12 pack Tweezers ;-) Bawls Guarana - Cherry 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 1: Motherboard Component Installation Prepare the motherboard outside of the chassis by installing the DDR4 memory, the CPU, and both M.2 SSD’s in the motherboard. Install the CPU water block, using an X pattern and 4 dots for thermal paste. Refer to section 2-1 of the motherboard manual for detailed step by step instructions on this process. NOTE: Due to clearance issues with the PETG tubing, do not use the DIMM.2 card for the SSD’s. Install the SSD’s underneath the motherboard “armor”. This requires loosening 4 captive screws and removing the armor to reveal the M.2 slots. Refer to section 2-11 of the manual for more detailed instructions. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 2: Remove the top panel by loosening the captive thumb screws and pressing down on the rear latch on the back of the chassis. Afterwards, slide each side panel upwards to remove them from the chassis. Store in a safe location until the assembly is finished.  Please refer to the attached manual for more detailed instructions. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 3: Loosen the captive screw on the plate covering the top internal hard drive bay. Next, loosen the screw on the bracket below the top bay and slide it towards the left. Finally, remove the hard drive rail to access the chassis accessory package. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 4: Install the motherboard into the chassis using the screws provided in the accessory package. The standoffs should be preinstalled with no modifications required to install the board. Step 5: Remove the rear chassis cable shroud by removing two screws and lifting the bracket outwards. Refer to page 8 of the Lian Li manual for more detailed instructions. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 6: Before installing the power supply, grab the cables you will need and start routing them to the necessary spots on the board throughout the chassis. You will need two 8-pin EPS cables for the CPU 12V ports, the 24 pin ATX cable for the motherboard main power, and three 8-pin VGA cables. Two for the graphics card, one for the CPU 12V auxiliary power. Two of the VGA cables should be routed through the bottom of the chassis to be positioned underneath the GPU for cleaner cable management. Route the front IO cables through the bottom rubber grommet and attach them to the motherboard. Refer to page 8 of the Lian Li manual for additional details on cable management. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 7: Remove the top 3 SSD mounting panels on the left side of the chassis behind the motherboard tray. Leave the bottom panel connected as it will help hide cables from the front IO and distro-plate. Refer to page 7 of the Lian Li manual for additional details.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 8: Mount the EKWB G1 Distro-Plate to the SSD mount location near the front IO. Be sure to lower the distro-plate until the pump is almost touching the bottom SSD mounting bracket. This will help line up the ports on the distro-plate with the ports on the CPU block and radiators. Fasten the distro-plate to the chassis using 8 screws included with the distro-plate. Attach the pump cable to the W_PUMP header on the board near the 24 pin ATX connector. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 9: Install the fan & RGB controllers included with the Bitspower fans. Install the fan controller on the top HDD cage and the RGB controller on the bottom HDD cage. Install the 5V ARGB header to the bottom part of the motherboard where the GPU cables were routed previously. Install the fan controller cable into CPU_FAN1. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 10: Install the PSU into the chassis. It’s a tight fit, however you do not need to remove the front panel LED controller. Simply angle the PSU in and side it towards the back. Secure with 4 screws included with the chassis accessory package. Leave the cables unplugged from the PSU until a later step, as it will help with routing cables later. Step 11: NOTE: Before proceeding, flush the radiator with warm water until flakes/debris are no longer present. Remove the bottom radiator mount from the chassis by removing 2 screws and depressing the clips at the bottom. Install the thicker radiator to this bracket using the smaller screws provided with the radiator. Make sure the inlet/outlet ports are towards the distro-plate installed in the chassis.  Make sure the radiator is slid to the right side of the bracket to line up with the ports on the right side of the distro-plate. Attach your fans to the radiator in an intake position (Bitspower logo facing down towards the radiator, voltage specifications facing up). Route the cables through the rubber grommet that your VGA cables are routed through, then reattach the bracket using the two screws and clips. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 12: NOTE: Before proceeding, flush the radiator with warm water until flakes/debris are no longer present. Attach 3 of the Bitspower ARGB fans to the radiator in an exhaust configuration (Bitspower logo visible inside of the chassis, fan voltage specifications mounted towards the top radiator). Be sure to mount the fans so that the cables can be easily routed through the rubber grommet on the chassis. Make sure the thinner radiator inlet/outlet ports are mounted closest to the distro-plate installed in the chassis. Slide the radiator as far forward as it will go and attach to the chassis using the radiator screws supplied with the thinner radiator. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 13: Remove the PCIe metal brackets and install the RTX 2080 Ti into the motherboard. Connect the cables that were routed previously to the GPU and make sure they are snug to keep them from touching the lower radiator fan. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 14: Finish plugging all the cables into the PSU that were left hanging earlier. Use the Velcro cable ties to secure the cables to one another so that they are neatly confined within the space behind the PSU cable shroud that was removed in Step 5. After securing the cables in a bunch, attach the PSU cable shroud using 4 screws. Note: You may need to slide the PSU shroud into place due to lack of clearance. It will fit, just slide it in from the left to the right. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 15: Prepare your fittings. Attach compression fittings to the distro-plate and lower radiator.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 16: Cut PETG tubing in the following lengths for the respective bends. Keep in mind that you may need slightly more length on the tubing to make up for material lost when deburring: ·         Bend 1: 3 ⅞” – 2 ⅛” – 2” ·         Bend 2: 5 ⅞” – 4 ½” – 2” ·         Bend 3: 6” – 3 ⅛” ·         Bend 4: 5” – 2 ¾” ·         Bend 5: 2 ⅛” ·         Bend 6: 4 ⅜” Those bends will correspond with the image below: Attach the tubes and fittings to their exact locations referenced in the image above. Step 16A (OPTIONAL): Add a drain at the bottom of the distro-plate behind the SSD mounting plate. NOTE: This is very difficult to install due to the close proximity to the pump and requires tightening the fitting into the distro-plate with very little room to move. With that being said, this step is highly recommended to save time when draining & servicing the unit in the future. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 17: Leak test the system using the EKWB Leak Test tool. Hand pump to 0.5-0.75 BAR and listen closely for any air leaks. It’s recommended to let the system sit for an hour to make sure it does not leak air over time.   Step 18: Fill the system with coolant using the fill port on the back of the distro-plate. A fill bottle will make this step easier. NOTE: Due to the lower speed of the pump, it is only recommended to use clear coolants such as EK CryoFuel Clear. Opaque fluids may gunk up and impede the flowrate of the pump. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter ryau admin February 7 Step 19: Attach the side panels to the system and prepare your Windows 10 installation. The SSD’s will be configured in RAID 0, so you will need to have the RAID driver ready during installation. If you've reached this point, congrats! The system should be complete and ready for use. Micro Center offers custom PC build services from basic to high end system with custom hard tube water cooling. If you want a fully custom, high FPS gaming system, or business system with unique specifications, imagine it online using our PC builder, then stop by one of our stores and talk to one of our associates. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Leave a Comment BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list Format Heading 1Heading 2 QuoteCodeSpoiler Emoji Url Image Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights Drop image/file Home • PC Build GuidesComment As ... Community Article ACER NITRO 5 — Micro Center ACER NITRO 5 Fishie ✭ April 29 edited April 30 in Help Choosing Parts I have model AN515-42-R5ED and I need help finding the maximum ram i can upgrade to and which ram would be recommended. Thanks. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin April 29 Hello @Fishie! Welcome to the Community.  That laptop can support up to 32GB of RAM and has two slots available, so you can do two sticks of 16GB. It uses DDR4 SODIMM memory, and pretty much any should work provided you use matching sticks. You can view our stock of DDR4 SODIMM kits here: https://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?Ntk=all&sortby=match&N=4294966652+4294818366&myStore=true 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Fishie ✭ April 29 Thank you 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Fishie ✭ April 30 If i buy, can you guys install them and his long would it take? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TS_BryantA admin April 30 @Fishie Good afternoon! We do have installation services available, though by our Micro Center Community we do not have quotes or turnaround times available. For this information if you go to your local store location, no appointments are required, and a tech consultant will be happy to review this with you before you agree to any services.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment. Community Article Financing instead of 5% — Micro Center Financing instead of 5% amir ✭ April 24 in Customer Service Questions Hello, I am trying to get information about your financing offers. I do not want to apply to find out there is only 3 months financing available. So is there a way to find out if there is a certain amount to get a certain number of months interest free? If so how should we go about it in this COVID environment?  Thanks 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Comments TSTonyV admin April 24 Hello @amir! Welcome to the Community.  Besides the 5% off your purchase offer, you can also choose 0% interest if paid within 6 months on purchases over $249. Some TVs qualify for a 0% 24-month promotion, this will be specified on their respective product pages if they do. You can choose whichever option you prefer at the register during checkout.  You can apply for the credit card through our page here: https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/mcinsidercard.aspx? The card is for in-store use only, so to make a purchase with it you do have to come into the store directly.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter amir ✭ April 24 Does it mean that the below only offers 5% and not 0% interest? What is the max for laptops or is 6 months the max? https://www.microcenter.com/product/622811/apple-macbook-air-mwtk2ll-a-early-2020-133-laptop-computer---silver 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSTonyV admin April 24 No, the 0% offer is an alternative option, it's just not displayed on the website. Six months is the maximum, the only products that can go longer are certain specific TVs.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter amir ✭ April 25 Thank you for the info 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter edgrlon ✭ April 27 Good afternoon. TSTonyV, is it possible to select 6 month financing while purchasing online? 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter AlexS admin April 28 edgrlon said: Good afternoon. TSTonyV, is it possible to select 6 month financing while purchasing online? It is not as we currently do not accept the Micro Center Insider Credit Card online.  We apologize for the inconvenience.  0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Blight ✭ April 28 If they took paypal payments i could get 6 mo no interest 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter TSKyleH admin April 30 Blight said: If they took paypal payments i could get 6 mo no interest Hello Blight, we currently do not take paypal as an option; However, we do accept Apple Pay, Google Pay, and Samsung Pay for instore purchases. 0 · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Sign In or Register to comment.